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WTB: Minidsp DDRC-24

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Im looking to buy a used Minidsp DDRC-24 with dirac live. please pm me if you have one available.

Fs sony x-800 4k player

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Like new sony ump x-800 4k player 150.00 shipped

TCL 6 Series (Normal HDR) Calibration

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Hello everyone, long time AVS Forum fan here and I was hoping for some help. I do a lot of gaming on my TCL 65R615 and I have generally been happy with the generic HDR Calibration settings online. Almost every site recommends Dark HDR + Brighter in there settings list with some tweaks to color in the expert settings. But I am coming across a problem becoming more common with video games. Many games do not have the in depth, in game HDR adjustments like those found in Halo and Assassin's Creed Origins. Many games have a basic hdr slider, and these games seem to be designed to be played with the TV set to "Normal HDR" not dark. Games like Red Dead Redemption 2, Resident Evil 2, and Elder Scrolls Online look washed out and lack HDR pop when played in "Dark HDR." The Elder Scrolls online almost looks sdr when in dark hdr mode with sun reflections being flat and dull. But if I switch to Normal HDR on the TCL, these reflections look fantastic. The only problem is no one seems to have a color calibration for Normal HDR mode.



If one of you wonderful wizards of technology would calibrate a TCL 6 series in "Normal HDR" mode and post the settings here, I would be forever grateful. I'd be interested in the max nits differences in the dark and normal hdr modes. If someone really wants to get techy, load up Elder Scrolls Online and check what kinds of nit readings you get in hdr hot spots between the two modes.

Fs: Marantz MM8077 7 channel amplifier

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Just picked this up but realised it is not 4 ohm stable. 150 wpc very nice amp new in box. Asking 1700 these sell for 2400 plus shipping or taxes so close to 2600 at the store.
Also could be talked in to trading for an anamorphic lense that would work on my benq ht9060..

Sub connection question for playing records

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I have a Denon receiver with a line out to my Mirage sub. The Mirage sub has both line level and speaker level inputs. My mains are set to "small" and the sub activates any time I play CDs or movies.



I just bought a turntable. When I play records my sub does not activate.


I assume that is because the line-level input is only activated for digital signals, not analog. Is there any way to activate the sub for an analog signal? Do I need to run speaker cable from my mains to my speaker-level inputs?


Let me know if my assumptions are wrong, and/or what I need to do to activate the sub when playing records.


Thanks!
J.R.

In-wall fronts - B&W vs KEF vs Monitor Audio

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Hello! First time on the forum so please excuse my ignorance!

I am trying to decide on a 5.1 system for my new house in London. The room is rectangular 9.5m wide and 7m long, with a glass sliding door on the 9.5m side. At one end will be the TV and the other end will be an open plan kitchen (along both the 7m walls).

I am looking at getting in-wall speakers for the fronts (around the TV on the 7m wall).

I haven’t been able to find any store in London which can demo any of the in wall speakers I’ve been recommended so looking for help here!

The options are:

1. 3x B&W cinema 7 (L / R / C)

2. 3x KEF Ci4100QL-THX (L / R / C)

3. 2x Monitor Audio CP-IW260X (L/R) + CP-WT240LCR (C) or 3x CP-WT380IDC

The speakers would be going in to a solid brick wall (9 inches thick)

I am planning on getting matching ceiling mounted rears to whichever front speakers I get.

The AVR I have been recommended is the Yamaha RX-A1080. Not sure about the subwoofer yet, but I’ve been recommended a REL T9i

Thanks in advance for your help!

Sam

Personal Property Insurance for HT System?

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Reading the fine print of my homeowners policy (ASI), audio/video equipment is limited to $2,000 per item and only !0% of total policy coverage. Needless to say my gear costs a lot more. My insurance company says they don't offer any additional coverage for audio equipment.

Are there any companies that offer special policies for high end audio/video gear?

Denon x4400 connection flickering- possible hdmi issue?

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Hi there. I had a denon 2311 a few years back that suffered from hdmi board issues.

I now have a denon x4400 that I noticed will start “flickering” for a second and the sound will cut out for a very brief moment. I did notice that when this happens, the channel indicators on the front face of the unit also disappear.

On other hdmi inputs it doesn’t do that (such as my Roku).

Any tips on trying to diagnose this problem? I can only think to swap to a different hdmi and see if it still happens. The unit is about a year old and is still under warrantee.

Why do displays have input lag?

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I was in another thread, discussing why input lag varies so greatly from one projector to the next?

Is it just poor design? Is it a side effect of image processing? Is it a limitation of certain display technology? Or is it a matter of cost? Or all of the above?

Any feedback from someone who understands the engineering more than I do would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

2019 TCL 75R615 Owners Thread

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Anyone have one yet? I checked Best Buy, and it's telling me I can get it by the 14th. So these TVs are out in the wild. Would love to see the differences between it and the 65".

Interesting new speaker compare tool at Crutchfield

Wide Soffit

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I'm finally making progress on framing for my theater. In the back there is this little nook and I'm not sure how best to build the soffit for the HVAC. The soffit will need to be 7.5' wide (from left to right in photo), 4' deep and 1' tall. I will be building a wall in front of the wall on the left for a double wall. The wall straight ahead I will either build a double wall or use clips and channel. The wall on the right is already isolated from the joists above with IB-3 clips. I'm not sure if it's best to build the soffit first and then the double walls, or build the double walls first and then attach the soffit to the new inside walls. Also any suggestions for how best to build the soffit to give it enough strength without losing too much headroom? Thanks!

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Sub for a 2-channel system

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I have several 2-channel systems, ranging from Bose Wave Radios to computer speakers. Of course, these are weak in the base. What is the best and least expensive way to add a powered sub to one of these? One way I've tried is to put a splitter with a volume control on one of the channels and feed the output to the sub. Of course, there is no crossover and the sub tries to also put out the middle ranges (unsuccessfully). Another, better way, would be to build a circuit to combine the two channels and add some crossover components.

Buying my first 'real' LCR speakers. Where to listen in San Diego, CA?

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As I get closer to completing my dedicated room, it's time for me to start thinking about some 'real' LCR speakers.

Moving from a very casual 5.1 in my Garage with a $150 receiver and 5 Energy bookshelf speakers, to building a 3000 cu/ft dedicated decoupled, double drywall GG room has been such a massive step that I'm realizing I have absolutely NO IDEA what kind of speakers I like. My lack of experience has been governed by having no budget in the past, so instead of getting what I like, I just got what I could afford.

Now after a year of building, 100s of hours of reading the DIY build threads, and over $20k invested in my build, I need to make a smart choice on my LCR speakers.

I have SVS Ultra surrounds and heights for my 7.1.4 setup powered by a Denon 6300h. I'll be sitting about 9ft from my speakers, and 10ft from my none-AT screen. 95% movies. For subs I plan on going with 2 units, but no idea what.

I can go up to about $3,000 for my LCR, but to be honest, I don't want to over spend on something that my 47 year old untrained ears can't appreciate properly.

To put it in Golf terms, I don't want to be 'that guy' with the $600 driver that hasn't learned to swing a club properly.

I live in San Diego, CA, I'm even hesitant to go and listen in a store, as I doubt it's going to really show me much compared to the room I've built at home over the last year, but I know i have to start somewhere.

Integrated amplifier vs my Onkyo sr606?

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So, I'm kind of new to audio, I just started buying random speakers and a receiver a few weeks ago.
The receiver is an Onkyo sr606, plugged into my PC (I don't use a TV), and I have a pair of Kef coda 7's, Mordaunt M10's and a pair or B&W DM303's on the way. I also have a Mourdaunt 309' subwoofer and a Kef c6 center.

At the moment I'm just picking up various cheap deals, trying to get the best audio for the best price, and trying to get a feel for different speakers and amps.

So, is it worth the while picking up an integrated amplifier or a stereo receiver as well as the Onkyo? I mean, will I get better sound when playing music from a dedicated stereo receiver, rather than from an AV receiver that's built to do lots of things such as surround\video, etc..

For example, the Marantz PM5005, or some older deals on eBay, or do I have to pay big bucks to get an improvement in sound?
Or is it all about the "sound" that an amp has, ie, Marantz are supposed to have a warm sound, whereas Yamaha are supposed to be neutral, etc..

I'll still use the av receiver for surround and general use, I'm thinking of the stereo amp just for music.
I think I read somewhere that a warm amp would compliment the DM303's. Does this make sense?
Recommendations?

Thanks in advance for any knowledge dished out..

JVC NX7/ RS2000 concerns.

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Hi gang.

First let me say I'm loving my projector. Can't really complain about it.

Except.....

A couple things are going on.

1) How long does it take to warm up? See the pic for what I see for the first 10-15mins. Video looks fine pretty much right away. Is this normal?

2) Sometimes when I watch Netflix as the program starts I lose picture. Black screen. If I flip inputs it reconnects and I'm good. Sometimes though I get a static screen or a pop up unsupported format. This has happened both with the PC and PS4.

3) Is the HDR fan suppose to be loud? Sounds like a cheap CPU/ GPU fan on max.

Thanks.

My rig;

Projector: NX7/ RS2000 with 1.7? firmware un-calibrated (waiting on new screen first)
HTPC:15-7500T, 16GB ram, GT1030, Win10. Resolution set to 2160p/60Hz
PS4: .....PS4?
Soundbar: Nakamichi Shockwafe 9.2
HDMI Cables: Monoprice SlimRun AV HDR High Speed Cable for HDMI-Enabled Devices, 18Gbps, Fiber Optic, AOC, YUV 4:4:4, 50ft, Black

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emotiva b1 or t0 ?

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for a 12x14 "media room" with lots of space challenges , ,, i am leaning towards another pair of b1's , but can anybody see a reason to "upgrade " to a floorstanding speaker?.. no dynamics issues with the b1 , no need for more headroom , i use my subs ( plus another set of bookshelfs as risers) for stands , so i would have to move the subs( that's going to be a challenge to find space) to accommodate the t0's...

Rear surround suggestion - rear port or bottom port speakers?

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I found a great deal on some used Elac UB5s (FR/FL) and a UC5 (C) for my fronts and just bought them without really thinking about how far I'd be able to set them out from the wall. Now that I'm looking for some rear surrounds to go with these, my room setup and placement has me thinking. I'd like to stick with Elac just for aesthetic purposes and am considering the B4 (rear port) or the 2.0 on wall (bottom port) speakers. My living room is like a rectangle with the right half of it being sunk in. My setup will be in the sunk in portion of the room, so my rear right speaker is either going to be in a corner or very close to a wall and my rear left will not be. I'm just wondering if a bottom ported speaker would do better in this situation vs. a rear ported one because the couch is pretty much up against the back wall which won't allow placement of rear surrounds behind me. The pic I drew isn't really to scale - I don't think I'd have enough room to try and angle the rear surrounds out a little bit, so they'll probably have to be set in the direction as shown. Maybe I'm over thinking this. I will be watching movies, multi-chan SACDs, and some DD 5.1 live concert DVDs. Suggestions much appreciated.

..I guess I could always plug the rear port if the speaker if it became an issue in the corner, huh? ..do any of you guys use dipole/bipole type speakers in this kind of rear surround setup/placement?

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Goldenear Forcefield 5 subwoofer for sale or trade. Can meet anywhere in NC or SC.

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I have a goldenear forcefield 5 subwoofer for sale or trade towards a 15" ported sub. The Goldenear is force field 5 is known for powerful musical bass in a small package.

I have a dedicated home theater and don't mind a huge ported box, so I am looking to sell or trade towards one of those.

I can meet most anywhere in NC or SC. I don't know yet if I want to ship it or not.


I'm asking $800 or best offer for it. It would be great for someone that wants strong bass but need a smaller size.

Wall outlet with HDMI input

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I just moved and am wanting to mount my tv. I want it to be a very clean install, so something I wanted to do was add an outlet behind the tv. I also was wanting to feed the hdmi cable to the outlet. I searched for some on Amazon, but wasn't sure if the hDMI connection parts had any certain level of quality I should be looking for....or if there was a better approach to this.

What do you guys think?

Here is one I found:

https://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Decora...with+hdmi+port
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