I am newbie in calibration, so please forgive me my ignorance.
I am trying to calibrate my Samsung 43 Q60 2019 (QE43Q60RATXXH) using X-rite i1Display Pro (revB).
Picture mode: Movie, Backlight 20, Brightness 0, Constrast 34, Sharpness 0, Color 25, Tint 0, Apply Picture settings to all sources, Color Tone: Warm2, Gamma: BT.1886 with slider set to 0.
I have attached HCFR 3.5.1.4 before and after calibration save files found calibration.zip attachment.
Note: Sorry, images are not inline the text due to my low post count.
I have read recommended calibration guides at curtpalme and lightillusion, but still have some gaps.
Here are my questions, some are more generic and some more my TV specific.
When I perform calibration, then it is best that it is performed in dark environment, to reduce the risk of light leaking and interfering with calibration device readings. Setting up brightness and contrast is done by eye, using white/black clipping patters (e.g. AVSHD 709). 1. When I am identifying best setting for brightness/contrast should I do it in the environment I will be watching the content or in completely dark room? E.g. if I am creating profile for watching during the day.
I'm wondering whether my brightness/white clipping pattern perception might be different during the day in comparison to dark room.
I have made 2 point, 20 point, primary and secondary colors calibration. Of course any enhancements are disabled, like: digital clean view, contrast enhancer, auto motion plus.
In HCFR options I have specified Gray scale dE handling to "Absolute Y w/gamma" setting.
My grayscale looks good, except of 5%, where blue becomes dominant for some reason.
And RGB values for 100% white are also good:
I have opted for BT.1886 gamma. 2. For some unknown reason gamma chart at 100% white looks very imbalanced regarding RGB, why? And how can I fix that?
During primary color calibration calibration to reduce Blue color dE I need to lower red component.
I guess this is the main reason why in CIE chart blue vertex is off.
But adjusting Red component for Blue color does not work.
It allows to increase amount of Red (50 is default value) to 60, but when I decrease it (e.g. to 20) nothing happens. HCFR readings remain the same.
For other colors I do not have such issues. 3. Is this is bug which I should report to Samsung or expected behaviour?
When I have adjusted primary and secondary colors at 100% of saturation, I have performed saturation sweeps and I want to fix blue color 25% saturation big dE.
It looks like my TV allows to adjust color at 50%, 75% and 100% saturation.
For some reason I am able to adjust at 75% of saturation for primary and secondary colors only.
I am unable to adjust any primary color at 50% of saturation. I can select 50% entry, but changing RGB has no effect. 4. Is my assumption correct that it is a bug in TV firmware?
For some reason "Colour Adjustment Point" menu entry is available only when video source is HDMI.
When I play AVSHD 709 video patterns via USB, this menu entry is disabled and therefore unavailable for configuration. 5. Can it also be assumed as a bug?
When I use AVSHD 709 white clipping pattern in MP4 (I do not have blue ray player, only Fire TV Stick 4K and USB as sources) and play it via USB then I see all flashing lines from 230 up to 253.
With default contrast setting of 45 flashing lines are pinkish, so I adjust ti down to 34 when there is no pink tone. 6. Is this correct that I should leave this setting as it is or I should lower contrast even more down so that only 230-235 are flashing?
When I use black clipping patterns I always see only 17-25 flashing regardless brightness settings.
First I calibrated TV using USB drive and MP4 files.
Then I played same MP4 files with VLC in Fire TV Stick 4K connected via HDMI and white flashing lines were the same 230-235.
So therefore I have assumed that TV is displaying MP4 correctly. Because I had a doubt whether it was playing it at Full or Limited RGB.
Then I decided to connect my laptop (Intel GPU) and try to validate my calibration result using internal pattern generator.
Using default settings I was able to see 230-235 flashing only. So in order to match this pattern as well as calibration results I had to do the following:
1. In Intel Display Settings set up Full RGB
2. In TV settings change HDMI black level from Auto to Normal
3. In TV sources change source type from PC into Blue Ray to be able to select calibrated Movie profile.
4. In HCFR -> Measures -> Generator -> Configure -> GDI options set to 0-255.
Only with this combination results made using MP4 files and HCFR pattern generator matches. 7. Does that mean that Samsung TV Tizen OS uses Full RGB to display content payed via USB and Youtube? Or I am missing something?
Is there a way to check whether Netflix uses Full RGB as well.
So my concern is whether it is bad that I calibrate for full RGB and eventually it turns out that Netflix uses Limited RGB?
Last question, I have disabled all ECO settings as suggested by rtings website, as well as dynamic contrast.
But when I use black clipping pattern and TV adjustment menu disappears the whole picture is getting more dim.
When I use APL clipping pattern, there is no such issue. I guess this is sort of algorithm based on average picture brightness.
I was unable to locate an option to disable such. 8. Does anybody know is there an option is service menu to disable it?
So I use APL patterns to overcome this behaviour and it looks to be working fine for primary, secondary colors and 10% greyscale.
But my TV offers 20 point control, therefore I have to use 5% greyscale, but AVSHD 709 provided 5% greyscale does not have APL version, therefore I have to keep Samsung menu always visible in order to keep brightness at normal level. Same goes for 0% and 25% color saturations. 9. Is this aproach is legit? If not, then what alternatives I have?
Using notebook with HCFR generator looks attractive to me, but I am concerned about this Full vs Limited RGB issue described in question 7 preface.
When I use HCFR to generate patterns by default it is in full screen and therefore background is black, which might introduce issue when patch it dim. 10. So using HCFR GDI pattern generator is there a way to simulate APL patterns or I should then use Window mode?
If windows mode is OK, then what color the background should be set? Because I have read somewhere that it is desirable to set backgrounds to black color, but this will trigger an issue again.
Really appreciate your time and effort to answer my questions.
Thank you.
Hello, i was hoping someone here could help me in diagnosing a Noise issue on this boat. They use Russound A-BK1 keypads to control the volume, and when turning up the volume there is a very loud Hissing noise. I found some high voltage wires running along with the speaker wires. Below is a picture of the main equipment location. I'm hoping that adding a couple ground loop isolators will fix this. What do you all think?
I recently built a Windows 10 Pro 64-bit pc. It is mostly for general use but is capable of streaming 4K UHD 60fps content with mullti-channel audio, from Amazon and Netflix. I have zero interest in gaming. The key pc components include a Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Ultra-CF (U3E1) motherboard with an Intel Core i9 Kaby Lake CPU, 32GB DDR Corsair memory, and an Intel M.2 2TB SSD. The video card is GeForce RTX2070. Both motherboard and video card support HDCP 2.2. I am feeding HDMI from the video card to an OPPO 203 external HDMI input. OPPO 203 video output drives a Lumagen Pro, which in turn drives a JVC RS600 projector. Audio is by way of the OPPO's 7.1 analog outputs feeding a Trinnov 16 channel processor. This is not the consumer Trinnov Altitude but rather an audio only device from Trinnov's line of commercial products.
Over this past weekend I wanted to stream an Amazon produced 4K UHD movie with 5.1 audio from Xfinity. However, all I got was 1080p and 2.0 audio. Has anyone else had Amazon Prime Video problems like this?
I am posting this text on the Video Processor forum as well. This could be an EDID issue.
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I’ve got a Monster Power HTS5100 and I’m needing assistance with the DC Out to trigger my mono block amps.
I cannot use the 12v triggers from my AVR for some reason they are not working. So the Monster Power Center should do what I need (I think!) and hope.
I need to set it up so that when up my AVR is powered up the Monster Power Center sends a trigger to the amps. I’ve got all the cables I need I just can’t figure out how to setup the dip switches in the back.
All of my equipment is plugged into the back of the Monster Power Center as Unswitched. I swore I could set it up so that when I Power on the AVR Ir sends a signal to the amps and boom!
Do I have to connect a 12v trigger cable from the AVR to the Monster Power Center? If this is the case then this won’t work since my AVR triggers are not functioning. Since they aren’t functioning on the back of my AVR I thought I could set it up so that electrical spots on the back of the AVR was plugged in a UNSWITCHED port and then it would send a trigger to the DC out and hence power on my amps via the 12v trigger cable.
Anyone know of the best way to get pricing and installation instructions for Stewart screens? Also, where’s the best place to buy Stewart screens?
I’m trying to decide between the Cima BC 110” Neve and the Luxus 110” StudioTek 130.
I am a new member here and this is the first good forum to get more infos about AR App development.
My knowledge about app-developing is very small, so that I must know at the beginning which tools I need.
Is it possible to develop an AR-app without license cost?
Can I get free tools like ARKit, ARCore, Unity, Vuforia or Swift and where can I download it?
And what is the difference between this applications?
Can someone tell me good advice, what I need for beginning please?
At the beginning I want start with a simple ruler app.
I've noticed lately that music that I'm hearing while watching a movie though my HT setup sounds better than when listening to the same song from a CD rip in FLAC format.
Just as an example, I watched the movie "The Game (1997)" which contained the song "White Rabbit" by Jefferson Airplane. The audio format was DTS-HD MA 5.1.
After watching the movie, I wanted to listen to the same song again. So I played a 2-channel FLAC rip from a CD of the soundtrack from the movie "Platoon" (which contained the same song). I played it in Dolby Pro Logic II through 5.1 speakers. But then I noticed that it sounded much worse than when I listened to the same song from the Blu-ray.
I've also noticed the same thing with several other songs. I.e. it sounds better on Blu-ray compared to on CD.
So I wonder what could be the reason for this? Has the song been mastered better on the Blu-ray than on CD? Or is it because the Blu-ray has been mastered in 5.1 channels directly, which is better than having Dolby Pro Logic II upscale it from 2.0 format to 5.1? :confused:
In particular I often notice the bass is lacking when listening through CD compared to Blu-ray. Any reason for this? :confused:
If you have any idea what could be the reason this experience, please share!
I have two sealed subwoofers, a 12” and a 15” ultimax, in a fairly large living room. They are each driven off a separate channel of a NU3000dsp. I have been running some REW sweeps and have a 10db dip around 20hz. I have some decent gain around 15hz which I assume is room gain. The subs are custom made into furniture and the room doesn’t allow them to be moved.
I’ve been trying to use dsp shelf filters to cut the top and bottom but can’t get seem to get a decent improvement.
How would you recommend to fill in this dip? I don’t have a ton of headroom but I suspect I could spare a little for a small boost at 20hz.
I just purchased a Klipsch R-12SW sub to replace my 10" Klipsch that gave out on me. My 10" seemed to do well enough for me but I got a decent price on the new 12". Problem is, I'm not quite sure I like the sound. It just sounds too muddy and not very tight in either movies or music. I have heard about Dayton brand and am seriously thinking about getting their 12" sub since I still have about 45 days to return the Klipsch. Any ideas or suggestions? Btw, my room is 18x20x8 but is actually an open floor plan with the kitchen. Any advice is appreciated.
I have 3 JBL 4722N as LCR that is behind a baffle wall and a SVS PB13-Ultra next to them, and just ordered a pair of JBL 9300 that shall be used as side speakers. Now I have a little doubt on how I should place the side speakers, when I look at the product page on JBLpro.com it says you can position them with a 15° angel towards the screen. But I don't know if this only apply to real cinemas also I can't find anything about what height it should be placed in.
For info in the future there will be added a pair 9300 more as back speakers and 6 JBL SCS8 as height speakers and 3 more SVS PB13-Ultra behind the couch.
Any help is appreciated.
See attached photo for the dimensions of the room.
I have a vtf-15h sub that needs a new amp. I have three options with big price difference's. I'd really like to go with the new factory amp but I don't really want to have more in the sub than what it's worth.
Option 1. New amp from hsu for $240 shipped. That's not bad considering, I'm just being cheap.
Option 2. Some one on Facebook has a dayton spa250 Subwoofer plate amp for $40. Hsu said the ohms on the speaker is 3, so it should work and probably just have a little less power than factory. It's 252 watts rms at 4ohms.
Option 3. I have a audiosource amp 300 that I run bass shakers on. I can run it on a channel that puts out 235 watts at 4ohms. That would be free.
The only rub is I want to run it along with a psa v1500. I know it will be stronger but it will be located further away than the hsu.
Those that may kkow, will I lose that much performance going with one of the cheaper options? Hsu also said I'd have to watch out for blowing the speaker with an aftermarket amp.
My plan is to run the hsu with one port closed and at the rear of a 12x20x9 dedicated room. The v1500 will be at the front. My X4400h receiver also has two inputs that can be leveled and adjusted separately.
Please Suggest a NEW Amp Receiver or Media player to connect my ipod touch gen 1.
Subject two: Heos Or MusicCast
..
OK… I am re-doing my audio at home. I just bought a new smart home with Alexa speakers everywhere.
My OLD setup: stereo amp with RCA inputs, CD player, ipod touch gen1 via headphone jack to RCA cable. Sound is good… but no remote control of ipod music.
..
What I want:
1. Amp or Receiver WITH IPOD USB interface for music and control. I would like music files to be DACed by amp/receiver and have ability to use remote control to select tracks, playlists.
I spend most of my day in my office listening to my ipod playlists on my stereo setup.
2. Ability to share ipod music on my Alexa speakers in any room I want. (trying to avoid leaving computer on with apple airplay running all day)
..
I see three options:
A receiver with everything in it… not easy to find receiver/amp that clearly states will work with IPOD via USB. (yet I have a 10 year old clock radio with ipod dock that has full control under $50...go figure)
Or
Media player that handles the ipod via USB, media services and smart music sharing (heos or musiccast).
Or
Get new ipod touch with Airplay turn the ipod into a music source. Then hopefully any other airplay speaker can access my ipod music and playlists.
...
If you have done this… please tell me what you bought, and how you like it.
I see three routes the Yamaha-Music cast, Denon Heos and Airplay.
Advice is super appreciated.
I'm not too serious in the AV game, but I recently bought a colorimeter and was hoping to calibrate two TVs on my own with Calman Home. Unfortunately, I did not realize I would not be able to use Mobileforge to calibrate HDR and DV. I would love to get this accomplished, but considering my incredibly limited use, I cannot justify spending the money to buy one myself.
As far as I can tell, my options are the Videoforge Pro and Murideo SIX-G. I would love to be able to rent one of these for a very short period of time to get my calibration done and send it back. Obviously I would pay you for it, and I'm happy to discuss price, but I'm simply hoping to find a more economical option for my use.
Additionally, I understand this is expensive equipment you would be trusting with a stranger. I'd be more than happy to deposit the full cost of the item with an escrow service until it gets back to you safe and sound. Hopefully there's someone out there who would be willing to do this and it can be a win all around.