December 15, 2016, 5:47 am
In the next couple of months I will be redoing my living room. As part of this redo I will be hanging my large 80 inch television on the wall and hiding my components in a cabinet on the other end of the room.
My vision is as follows:
- Hang TV on the wall
- Hide all the power and AV wires behind the TV for clean look
- Run one coax (for TV antenna), 1 HDMI and 1 Cat6 cable from the TV to the other end of the room in some kind of conduit in the ceiling. Each of these cables will need to be at least 35 feet long. The room is 21 feet long and will need extra slack.
- Get an HDMI 6+ 4K HDMI switch that will be in the cabinet with all the av equipment. This will be source for switching inputs.. not the TV.
While my current TV is not 4K, I want to ensure that the cabling will support 4K so that when I do upgrade my TV is set.
1. What kind of HDMI cable should I get. It will need to be 35-40 ft long and support 4K.
2. What kind of HDMI switch should I get? I would like minimum of 4 4K inputs, ideally it would be 6. PIP would be nice as well, but not mandatory now.
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December 15, 2016, 5:50 am
Hoping someone can point me in the right direction because I have absolutely 0 knowledge about projectors except the fact that I want one now.
I am not looking to spend too much, but I can go as high as $1200 if it is really worth it. I know that there are a few deals going on now, so I figured it would be a good time to buy, but I would really appreciate some assistance from you knowledgeable folks :)
I just bought a house and the living room dimensions are 155" (~12.9ft) wide x 216" (~18ft) long and the ceilings are standard 8ft high or so. I want to hang a project right at the entrance into the living room (long side) and for the screen to be 18ft down at the other end of it. But perhaps not all the way at the wall since I will have a 65" Samsung Curved KS8500 TV hanging. The projector will be for game days etc...
I do NOT do much gaming, mostly just movie nights and regular watching, but I would prefer it to be good at both, movies and gaming, so the lag would preferably have to be minimum in case I do decide to get into gaming, which is a definite possibility.
The seating area in the living room will be about 50% in, so roughly at about 9ft from either of the two ends of the room.
The only real lighting I have is a bay window which currently does NOT have any shading on it, but will at some point, but I would still prefer to have a brighter projector to show the colors more vividly.
So, I would like to get some feedback as to the type of projector I will need that would throw the image 17-18ft across the room, as well as the best screen to get in terms of size. I would like the screen to be motorized so I saw a few on Amazon, but not sure what size to go with for the room size.
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated :)
Thanks in advance and I wish everyone a Happy Holiday season!
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December 16, 2016, 2:52 am
I have Polk 60s for my front, Polk 30s for rear surround, Polk CS10 center and a Bic F-12 sub. My center sucks! So its first. Looking at some of the definitive tech line. CS9060 or 9040 or SVS ultra center. I have a dedicated sub so I am guessing the 9060 would be pointless? or should I go with something like Klipsch rp-450CA? Then either upgrade the receiver and go atmos (prime elevation SVS) or add a power amp and new receiver to my current setup.
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December 16, 2016, 3:37 am
Hello,
I have a question about an upcoming purchase I am about to make. Recently (about 3 months ago) my 2015 Sony TV (50W829) that I have for almost 2 years started having weird popping problems both when the device is turned on and also when turned off. Long story short, after a long couple of months the store I bought it from offered me to get any new tv they have in stock and they will recude the cost of my purchase of my old tv off the new TV I am going to buy. So I am pretty sure I am going to get a Sony Sony KD55XD8005 because obviously I am going to get something more futureproof and 4K now, especially if I want to upgrade my PS4 to the Pro in the near future.
Now the question I have is what is this going to do for my current audio chain since my Denon X1100 receiver doesn't support HDCP 2.2? Currently I have the TV connected to the HDMI OUT port of my Denon and my consoles hooked up to the receiver. Basically everything in my current chain is working perfectly and exactly as it's supposed to. (lossless PCM audio) Now I wonder, if I get the new 4K Sony TV, if I would connect that the same way as I do now, that is going to give me problems since my receiver doesn't support HDCP 2.2?
I am a bit confused. First of all, will my current Original PS4 with my new TV even give me trouble at with my current setting at all since it doesn't even support 4K? Or do I have to somehow force the TV settings of my upcoming new TV to 1080p to not get any audio/video problems? I am not going to get a PS4 Pro yet so I will still be gaming on the original one for a while. Will my PS4 and receiver just adjust itself automatically to a 1080p mode on the new TV since the base PS4 doesn't support 4K? And will everything work just as it does now?
I also heard of the option to use the ARC input from the tv and with in optical cable set it in that way that you will connect the ps4 directly to your tv and then the tv to the receiver so you basically bypass the receiver doing the audio work but still get surround sound. From what I understood though, you won't get lossless audio. But now I also wonder for the tech savy here, do PS4 games even support lossless audio or am I not going to hear a difference at all? I don't care too much about movies and stuff. It's really just all for gaming.If there is a very noticeable audio difference with gaming though, I guess I am screwed then and forced to buy a new receiver? I am very much enjoying the surround sound I am getting with my current setup so I really don't want to lessen the quality of the gaming side of things if not absolutely necessary. Or is all of this only necessary if I am going to get a Pro?
Apologies for the overload on info but I really want to do this the right way and without spending money on a new receiver while also being prepared for the PS4 Pro in the near future. I got all of this equipment less then 2 years now so it's still a pretty recent huge purchase for me.
Many thanks in advance!
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December 16, 2016, 3:38 am
VPI Classic Signature going into a McIntosh MA5200 Intergrated.
I am considering the MP100 or the Parasound JC3+ to replace a Lehman black cube statement.
The McIntosh would match well- I assume- with the IA, but there are no real world reviews of the unit.
The parasound is 1k more but has received outstanding reviews.
Tye MP100 seems a bit gimmicky and over priced due to the ability to rip LP to digital feature. I have NO interest in this.
Anyone experience either one of these or both?
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December 16, 2016, 4:35 am
for my man cave (basic 15' x 20' den). Mostly for movies (my music setup in another room is the SVS prime BS and sub and I am quit satisfied with those)). Based on my internet research, I am considering the following - Hsu, Emptek,HTd level III and the Chanes. Possibly Ascends as well.Looking at $500 - $600 budget and have not heard any of them. Don't want to blow $ on auditioning and return shipping. Should I just pick one out of a hat and move on? (I am by no means a trained audiophile). As always, thanks for any input or advice.
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December 16, 2016, 4:36 am
My HTPC died, and I'm using HD homerun Prime, but I need access to copy protected shows. So, I bought a computer with Windows 7 Pro (and also with a disc/license for Windows 10). I'm having difficulty setting up WMC and the HTPC with Win7 Pro, in fact somehow I only have guest access to the computer and not admin access. (I was trying to have Task Scheduler be able to run without a password, and I somehow got rid of the admin access.)
Assuming I can correct this, how did you set up your HTPC with Win7 Pro? Do you have a guest and admin account, for instance?
I want the computer to boot directly to WMC, without having to enter a password. Is this possible and if so, how?
I also want to be able to run Task Scheduler, eg, to copy recorded TV to a NAS (unraid). It apparently is possible to do this while having no password, but I did it incorrectly. If you did this, did you use separate guest and admin accounts, or did you configure this some other way?
Thank you.
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December 16, 2016, 4:36 am
I'd like to know if it is possible to replace TWC internet service with Cell phone internet service?
Would it be a viable option? I'm just interested in using the cell phone for internet service. Would it be possible to connect it to multiple devices (HDTV, Desktop, Laptop, Tablet)?
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December 16, 2016, 4:45 am
I am currently running a 7.2, using a Yamaha receiver. I am using the front "presence" setup with the Yamaha. Since setting up a couple of years back, I have been using a set of full size bookshelf speakers for the front heights (Boston Acoustics CS26 - 6.5" woofer, 1" tweeter).
I'm not quite ready to go full Atmos yet (ie. running wires for ceiling speakers), but I have been long been considering adding speakers in the back to have a 9.2 (my receiver is 11.2 capable).
I can't really get speakers to match my current setup. I have been thinking about moving the large bookshelf speakers to the rear and putting some smaller speakers in the front height position - maybe like the SVS Prime Elevation.
My general thinking is that the large bookshelf speakers are overkill for front height duty, and that going with something smaller shouldn't result in a huge "loss" of presence, but wondering what other folks think?
What size speakers do you use for front height/presence?
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December 16, 2016, 4:52 am
I'm just curious as to how many people use the Analog outs on their Oppo. I know that I would love to have an HDMI only version as my receiver can handle all of the Audio decoding. I still want it to be able to read all the same types of disks, and files. Is there a place in the market for slightly less capable but high quality player. Any thoughts
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December 16, 2016, 5:27 am
Good afternoon!
Quick question, I have an OLED55E6 and planning to buy a Ps4Pro after the HDR game mode update. What I noticed is that the B6 model had received the HDCP 2.2 update but there is no mention in any of the E6 release notes. Does this E6 model not suffer from the same HDCP problem? Or is it yet to be fixed?
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December 16, 2016, 5:33 am
I was watching Out For Justice last night and was wondering which movie in your opinion benefit from the best remastered audio available on blu-ray? Clearly not the case for OFJ about audio, but I am very curious to rediscover movies with great tracks!
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December 16, 2016, 5:38 am
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December 16, 2016, 6:01 am
Alas my beloved Samsung 65 inch 3D plasma has died in just over 2 years. As I wanted to keep the 3D function and the price down, I purchased a 1080p 75 inch 3D LCD Samsung as a replacement.
Among the many awful differences between the 2 displays, the lower stand height of the new TV has been the most troublesome as my Boston Acoustics center channel sits right in front of the TV's IR receiver and locating the BA under the same surface as the TV throws the sound off .
One of the new slim sound bars would do the trick except they have their own amp and sound processing. They don't just have a simple +/- speaker binding post to accept a line level input, only HDMI, optical, and 2 channel RCA.
What to do?
Open that sucker up and rewire the 3 full range 2.5 inch speakers into a parallel/series setup and install a Radio Shack binding post.
For about 25 bucks in parts I converted the Visio SB into a real center channel speaker that fits below the TV's IR receiver.
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December 16, 2016, 6:09 am
I've always heard good things about Jamo but knew they were expensive for what you got. Now I know that Klipsch owns them. Are they selling off the Jamo brand and coming up with new models or are they just shutting down period? The Jamo J112 is 600W peak/300W RMS. The BIC models are 475 peak/250 W RMS. Price on Jamo 12" J112 is $239. Price on BIC PL-200 is $249. Price on BIC F12 is $195. Can you guys let me know what sub is the best, most durable sub, for the money. Thanks in advance!!!
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December 16, 2016, 6:50 am
Not sure if this has been mentioned but hopefully this thread will help a few that is having "washed out HDR color" and "flickering" problem with the PRO. I found the solution after speaking with a high level Sony TV tech. First I thought the problem was with my Sony X930D TV, but it turned out that it's a PlayStation 4 PRO problem.
Solution is to switch from Automatic Resolution under the Video Putput Setting of your PRO to RGB. This way the PRO will automatically change to from RGB to YUV422 when you are playing a HDR game.
So pretty much Automatic Resolution doesn't work with all TVs. And I am very surprised that it does not work on my TV because it's one of the newest model by Sony. Sony is acknowledged of this problem but unsure when this will be fixed.
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December 16, 2016, 6:52 am
I have the remote programmed for my Optimum cable box and for my Vizio TV. They both work fine. I programmed the remote to power on the TV/Cable/Sound all by pressing the power button once. It works for the first time, and then after that it only powers on the TV and sound, not the cable box. I followed the instructions in the manual...
Any ideas?
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December 16, 2016, 7:53 pm
Just bought a new Samsung KS8000 60" and have a Denon AVR1913. Any suggestions on how to get the app sound (YouTube, etc.) through the 5.1 speakers? I have the One Connect from the TV running between the ARC HDMI4 and the ARC on the receiver. I tried messing with the Input Assign in the receiver as well and not getting anything on the TV audio. Thanks!
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December 16, 2016, 8:03 pm
I would like recommendations for 1/3 octave equalizers for use in my stereo system used exclusively for music playback.
I am most interested in recommendations about specific units and useful features and specs to look for.
The system is for use by one person in one location, so full room, multi-position optimization or averaging is not sought.
My equipment is currently an Outlaw integrated amp, a pair of DefTec 8040's and a soon to be SVS or Hsu 12" sub. The room will initially be a 10.5. by 10.5 with 8' ceiling and later a 20 x 20 garage with open ceiling to a pitched roof.
I've had various equalizers over the past 50 years and appreciate their benefits to my listening pleasure much more than being disturbed by what purists are concerned with.
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December 16, 2016, 9:16 pm
I'm going to buy either the Samsung KS9000 or the LG OLED G6P.
What is the better buy?
I heard that the LG OLED has better blacks and contrast and the Samsung is brighter, has crisper colors and sharper picture quality.
I saw the LG OLED at Best Buy and it's more expensing than the Samsung and also the LG picture seems darker.
I'm not sure. Is it worth spending more money on the LG OLED?
What is the best TV that I could buy, regardless of the price? Thanks.
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