December 29, 2018, 4:14 am
I have an old vantage system at home with a single master controller running Qlink and ~12 controllers and dimmers.
Recently the master controller started giving me hard time and the the local dealer is trying to upgrade me to infusion controller for... too much money.
IT feels to me like the entire system is way too old - has anyone experienced a smooth upgrade to a modern technology? any recommandations?
Thanks
GH
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December 29, 2018, 6:13 pm
Canadian sale - cannot ship to US or Anywhere - too big and heavy! Ontario meet up purchase only. Cash only.
Too powerful for my use in a condo. Selling as need to downsize it and has past the return date.
Brand new inbox. Never opened.
Asking $2150 or best offer.
Paid $2499+ 13% tax
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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December 29, 2018, 6:20 pm
Hopefully someone can help. I want to play split screen zombies on black ops 4 with my son. I've tried adding a guest account(so my Gamertag and Gamertag1) but it won't let me.
I know on Advanced Warfare exo zombies if I play local I can easily do split screen.
Tried local on BO4 and nothing. All I get is to sign in another account..
Am I missing something really easy?
Thank you for any help peeps :)
Btw, my son is only 5 and he got to level 17 first try on Voyage of Despair.
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December 29, 2018, 6:45 pm
Hey guys question for you all I have these big 3 way passive crossovers for my towers with a 3 pin plug to go from 4 ohm or 8 ohm on the woofer section of it. I currently have the pin plug at 4 ohm with a 4 ohm woofer and their RE is about 3.8 ohms. Im replacing them with "8 ohm" woofers with a RE of 4.9ohms which is quite low for an 8 ohm woofer. Should i leave the switch at 4 ohm because the RE is a lot closer or switch it to 8? What exactly does switching it do? Will it change the impedance at the back of the terminal going to the amp?
Thanks guys
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December 29, 2018, 7:08 pm
I recently acquired screen innovations zero edge frame with tear in material. So i wanted to use it build my diy screen.
With some guidance from avs forum I have now build the screen with carls' flexwhite material.
Next up is to figure out silver fire paint,motorized horizontal masking.
The screen is 110" diagonal 16:9.My projector is jvc RS-500.Ceilings are flat black, side walls are theater red.
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December 29, 2018, 8:06 pm
I'm building a smallish home theater room. The riser for the rocker style seats is only going to be 78"x44" and 12" tall.
Is it worth the effort to put vents throughout it and fill with fiberglass insulation? Or is the size small enough to be negligible acoustics wise?
here is some pics of wha pt I'm working with. It's still in the stage where I can add vents and insulation.
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They seats that I am going to use.
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December 29, 2018, 8:17 pm
It doesn't stay powered on. It seems to have a loose connection somewhere but I don't have much idea where it could be as I've almost never dealt with car stereos, or stereo systems for that matter.
I can bring it back to life just by gently pressing it's face. Sometimes it takes a harder push. What should I check?
Here's a closer look:
https://youtu.be/f-kRRAnjW5o
Thanks!
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December 29, 2018, 9:35 pm
I don't have the option to ceiling mount speakers which is required for the Dolby Atmos spec. What happens if you play Dolby Atmos on a standard 5.1 or 7.1 system with speakers mounted just above or at ear height? Can a 5.1/7.1 system take any advantage of Dolby Atmos? Would you get any perceived height extension by playing an Atmos signal vs a standard signal?
Basically just wondering how Atmos is handled when you have no Atmos enabled speakers or channels.
Thanks in advance guys!
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December 29, 2018, 10:15 pm
I'm trying to pick out some new subs for my ~3700ft^3 bonus room. Trying to stay around ~$1500. Unless someone tells me its total overkill I'm looking at pairing these with the PSA - MT110 for my L/R/C.
Ones I am considering, PSA S1510DF, PSA S1510, PSA V1510DF, PSA V1510, HSU VTF-15H MK2, HSU VTF-3 MK5 HP, HSU VTF-2 MK5, in various combinations and the different price points.
I plan on going dual subs regardless 12" or 15", just on the justification on if its worth it stepping up to the most expensive variant (PSAs).
So the questions I have.
1. I'll start simple, the Down firing vs front firing, I can't see to see any difference other than aesthetics. Is this correct?
2. Would going with 2x 15's be overkill for the size of room I have or would two 12's from be adequate?
3. The PSAs show they have 950W RMS compared to the HSU 600W RMS. Are the PSA's that much more powerful or is it just marketing? Or are they really that much more powerful and make it that much more worth it the extra $$?
4. If I'm going down the HSU route, the only major thing I can see different between the HSU VTF-15H MK2 and the HSU VTF-3 MK5 HP is that the former will hit 16Hz compared to 18Hz. Is there a substantial enough difference between the VTF-15H-MK2 and the VTF-3 MK5 HP to make it worth the extra ~200$?
5. I know its subjective but same question between the PSAs and either of the HSUs. Is pushing the budget ~500$ worth it?
6. Any others within this price range I should consider? The two PSAs are already pushing budget wise though so do consider that and would like to stay in the ~$1500-1700 range.
I know people say demo demo demo, and I know that a lot of these companies have great warranties/return policies but I hate to spend it and then spend 500$ shipping the stuff back and have nothing so I'm trying to do my research ahead of time and if it doesn't sound like complete trash (which I'm sure it won't) it would be good (not like I would have anything to compare it to).
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December 29, 2018, 11:27 pm
I'm using a 3rd party music streaming app on my MacBook pro. I can cast to my stereo through Raspberry Pi Volumio using Airplay. Basically I'm using the Raspberry as an Airplay endpoint/bridge like this:
Mac running music stream app ~~~~~~<Airplay>~~~~~~~~ Raspberry Pi Volumio --- Home stereo
But the problem is Airplay sample rate is limited to 48kHz. I dont know what Airplay 2 sample rate is and Volumio currently doesnt support it.
So I'm trying to find a way to cast my music stream to Raspberry/Volumio using UPNP/DLNA instead, which has higher sample rate. Like this:
Mac running music stream app ~~~~~~<UPNP/DLNA>~~~~~~~~ Raspberry Pi Volumio --- Home stereo
Can Audirvana+/Serviio (or any software) cast my 3rd party stream app using UPNP/DLNA? Or this is needs to be a plug-in?
PS - When playing TIDAL lossless using Audirvana+, it shows "DAC 16/44.1KHz", when I have set 24bit/192KHz in preference. Why is it still showing 16/44.1KHz? BTW my DAC is Parasound Halo Integrated.
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December 29, 2018, 11:54 pm
Like new condition with the hardware.
$40 a set, free shipping in CONUS.
Or F2F pickup in the Los Angeles (south bay) area.
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December 30, 2018, 1:56 am
Hello,
I have a Yamaha RX-V 440 RDS AV-Receiver for several years, most of the time not in operation for the last few months. Now I wanted to us it again, but noticed it would turn on for only a second, display Volume -70, hear a clicking relais sound, and then immediatelly switching off again. I already managed to enter diagnostics mode, but I am not really sure what the data displayed there could help me, and I have also already opened the device, checking the two fuses on the PSU which seem to be okay.
Any idea how to fix this, or what to try in diagnostic mode? This happens no matteer if speakers are connected at all or not.
Thank you for all hints you can give :)
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December 30, 2018, 2:54 am
How good TV is needed to match Optoma UHD60 in a dark room at 75-80”, projector 3,3m (11ft) from screen?
Will I need OLED or will cheaper TV technologies be good enough (Samsung Q6, LG Nanocell, Sony XF85)?
Background:
I plan to upgrade from my great 720p projector to 4K. Room is dark. Screen size is 80-ish. Was thinking of UHD60, but see comments on TV being better at this size. Is that only when using an OLED TV, prohibitively expensive at 75” and upwards (even more than real 4K projectors)? I would be fine with a picture size in the 75”-80” range. LG 75SK81, Samsung 75 Q6F and Sony 75 XF85 are examples of the TVs that would be in an acceptable price range.
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December 30, 2018, 3:59 am
Hi,
Apple TV 4K will be main source of signal for my new Oled TV which one should I go for?Thanks
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December 30, 2018, 4:03 am
How and what do you clean your screen with? I make sure we all never even touch the thing, but due to me velveting the walls among other projects going on in the room it appears to have some dust/material on it. I have a Stewart ST130.
The Stewart manual suggests a “drafting” brush - which it says I can get at an office supply store.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
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December 30, 2018, 5:14 am
looking for a atmos soundbar. i used to own a samsung hw-k950 , sound was great but it had many problems with the rears disconnecting.
then i got a LG SK10Y, i found the sound very poor, dialogs from the center and the bass from subwoofer were very weak. i tweaked the settings for a week but it never improved
so i returned it.
so now i need a alternative. the samsung HW-N950 is just too darn expensive (and its not in stock anywhere currently) i just cannot justify paying 1499 for a soundbar.
so i am narrowing it down to the Sony HT-ST5000 and the samsung HW-N850 (identical to the 950 but without the rears).
the sony is a around 200 euro more expensive though but it (on paper at least) more powerfull than the samsung. both got no rears (though you can get non-atmos rears for the samsung for 175 euro).
any recommendations ? idea's ? other alternatives ?
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December 30, 2018, 10:23 am
For my in-house wired to 4 rooms Sonance speakers powered by a older Sonance amp (sonamp 260 x 3), I want to add streaming.
Currently I have a Nakamichi Carousal CD directed connected to the amp.
What I want to do is install a high quality streamer for streaming services. Also stream from audio files from my NAS drive.
I need two inputs for the CD player, and the streamer.
I can not find a quality streamer that is also a pre-amp.
Ideas?
Comments?
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December 30, 2018, 10:34 am
Looking for something special to show off your media room? How about one of these back lit movie poster display cases? These are commercial grade display cases that were salvaged from an old movie theater in north Texas several years ago. each display case is designed to hold 27" x 40" art work. These units are 35" x 55" x 7" and are industrial grade designed for indoor or outdoor use.
Construction is heavy aluminum extrusion, anodized aluminum trim with tempered glass door. These displays use a special "snap" type frame. Each section of the frame is spring loaded and hinges closed to hold your double-sided movie poster in place. The front door is is secured with two locks. Back lighting is supplied by two 4ft long LED bulbs behind a 1/8" thick plastic diffuser panel. This spreads the light evenly across the poster. Surrounding the frame are 62 tiny incandescent lights. Lights are operated by a 3-way switch that allows back light or back light + incandescents. Can be plugged in to wall socket or direct wire.
These are very heavy units, (~100 lbs ea) and were built in the US by Schult Mfg co and professionally restored. Cabinets were refinished in SEM "Hot Rod Black" satin black finish. Posters are not included but can be purchased separately. These units retail for around $2k ea, asking $1000ea cash or might consider interesting trades. Also note I have two that are partially restored and need to be completed. I'd include all parts to finish the restoration as well as support for $400 ea. Message me for details if you are interested
Located in Cedar Hill Texas
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December 30, 2018, 10:35 am
Sorry in advance for the long winded post. I just want to give everyone here as much info. as possible.
*Hello there. This is my 1st post. I’ve been browsing this forum for a little bit now and wanted to introduce myself and ask for some advice for me a complete NEWB.
This is embarassing. Currently I have approx. a 10 year old brick and morter black friday 32” Dynex special. ( I don’t even think it’s 1080 .. ? )
I decided it’s time to take the plunge and invest in a new set-up. And when I say invest I do mean invest.
**** Large sized roon family room that open up to the kitchen.
**** angled vaulted ceilings that come to a point in the center of the room.
**** Carpet floors . I don’t know if that makes a difference.
**** Subwoofer would be ideally hidden behind our piano. Approx 10-15’ away from soundbar.
**** Not necessary to have DTS or Atmos or whatever it’s called the sound is fired towards ceiling and back down @ us.
**** 95% of the time we will just be watching TV
**** 5% will be movies.
I recently got an LG 55” E8 OLED. I have not yet received it but it’s on it’s way.
I’d like some advice on a basic quality sound set-up ( that can all be purchased from Best Buy ). I’m looking @ making the purchase from Best Buy ( hate it or not ). I am just looking for a quality sound set-up. Nothing fancy.
Here’s what we are looking for:
1) No reciever. Not getting that in depth.
2) Quality Sound bar
3) Quality Sub
4) Universal remote
5) 4K player
6) “possibly” some rear speakers.
7) Under $2000
Soundbar: I am looking @ the Bose 700 soundbar currently. I know some hate Bose and others praise it.
I’ve dabbled into looking @ the Sonos Playbar. But here is why I’m leaning towards Bose.
1) No remote
2) Does not use HDMI conection to TV ( HDMI ARC is better than the Sonos which has an optical connection right? )
3 ) To my knowledge Sonos does not have the history of quality audio as Bose.
Subwoofer / rear speakers: Since we are leaning towards the Bose 700 it makes sense to use we go with the bose subwoofer and satelite speakers. Right? Or no?
- Must be wireless ( with the except with the power chord.
- DOES NOT need to be house rumbling and shaking sound. Just something that compliments the soundbar well.
Universal remote:
1) I thought I read the LG E8 remote is universal? Does that mean it would be able to control my other devices that are connected to the TV via HDMI? ( 4k player, sound bar, streaming device )
- With a remote IT MUST be compatible with our cable box from our provider.
- It must also allow stop, pause, rewind, scroll the pages menu and record onto our DVR ( our box )
*** I don’t know if the LG E8 remote will do all that
2) Possibly looking @ Harmony remote. Doesn’t need to be cream of the crop flagship model.
-) Needs backlight buttons
-) work with our cable box from our provider
-) work with our DVR. Stop, pause, rewind, scroll pages and record
-) Ideally have numerical buttons
4K player: I know a lot of you might be thinking a 4K player is a waste since a lot of the content is now digital. Even though we will embrace digital content. We’d like to also have a physical 4K player. Currently leaning towards the LG UBK90. It seems to get a lot of great reviews @ a decent price.
** All the devices above will be coming from a set up by a brick and morter store.
Thanks for taking the time to read this short novel.
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December 30, 2018, 10:39 am
What AVR and initial 3.0 ( 5.1 future upgrade) setup would you recommend for a very large living room that will pair with a 75" 900f. Trying to spend less than $1000-1100. Room is about 650sqf. (18.5 x 38 - 10ft height)
Wife doesn't want huge towers and would be open to smaller bookshelfs that can be mounted to left and right or ceiling. Tried to get her to do the Klipsch 280's that are available for $209 each but got vetoed [emoji3525]
We would mount or sit the center on a 78" low profile console or mount above
Any thoughts as only other option is Sonos Soundbar, Sub and Ones as the walls are not wired. I can return my Sonos and use the $1500 for other equipment/3.1 wiring.
Update: Demoed these at Best Buy - ML Electro
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/martinl...?skuId=4756441
I can potentially put these in the 10-foot ceiling for 3.0 to start unless you think there are cheaper options like RSL in ceilings
Photo: Orange is 10x10 couch
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