Hello, I am in the market for a 4K TV. I currently own a 46" TV and it appears every new model for 2015 that is 4K is at least 49". I see Panasonic is making a 40" but I'd like it to have the specs that the higher end models have. Do manufacturers ever release additional models as the year goes on or is what they announce at CES going to be it? Are there any new models ranging from 45" - 48" range that are considered to be apart of the high end 4K line? Thank you, I just cannot support a TV in my space that is 50" or larger.
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4K Buying Advice
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I need help troubleshooting and repairing a Samsung LCD
I have owned a Samsung un60eh6003f 60" LCD television for approximately 1.5 years. Unfortunately, it gave up the ghost tonight. Whenever I attempt to turn it on, the standby light goes from solid red to blinking a few times. This is normal for it to do until the picture appears (and then the standby light remains off). However, the picture never appears. It is apparent that the screen is on, but there is no picture. There IS sound, however, it is coming from the surround system. OF COURSE, Samsung is refusing to look at the unit since it is beyond the terms of their 1 year coverage (nevermind the fact that it had to be replaced within 3 months, and twice repaired due to picture issues). Since they are refusing to be of any help, I decided to open the chassis and see what I could find on the Internet in regards to fixing the issue. I found a few videos and downloaded a service manual. However, I am completely lost! Can anyone one point me in the right direction and, perhaps, tell me what I need to look for and what to check?
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Is it me or is Bose getting better?
This might be unpopular, but, is it me or is Bose getting better?
I remember 6-7 years ago Bose made absolutely terrible speakers. I heard the $4000+ Lifestyle system, and it is just horrible, no better than $400 systems.
Fast forward to the past year or two. Consistently I've been hearing Bose speakers and thinking, this doesn't sound bad at all. I'm not saying they sound good, but I feel like they're no longer overpriced, and are actually competitive or better than similarly priced products.
To confirm my theory, I got a Bose SoundLink 2, and I think it sounds better than the highly acclaimed Big Jambox. Measuring them with REW and a UMIK-1 showed an OK frequency response. The midrange is a little recessed, but there weren't any treble boosts. In fact treble rolled off pretty hard after 13KHz.
I also got a Bose Cinemate 10 as a computer speaker. This thing was able to strongly convince me I had a left speaker when clearly the speaker is in front of me. Even when I got right in front of the speaker it still sounded like I had a left speaker. This trick is only doable if I have a wall nearby though, but still, it pseudo imaging was impressive, and it was a lot more stable than real speaker imaging. The speaker didn't sound great, but it was a very listenable type of sound that didn't make me hate listening to a low quality speaker. It no longer has the harsh treble that I remember from listening to the old Acoustimass or Lifestyle system speakers.
I was very impressed by the (sub)woofer considering the overall system price of just $500. It is capable of some very powerful bass over the range where most of the bass found in music. I got over 110dB at 45Hz (the tuning frequency). I'll find the limits of this system on another day. Yes, it is a s****y bandpass subwoofer, but nevertheless, this is much more powerful than most of the HTIBs on the market. $500 really isn't overpriced for a system like this IMO. The sound signature should sound very good to most people.
What do you guys think about the current Bose?
I remember 6-7 years ago Bose made absolutely terrible speakers. I heard the $4000+ Lifestyle system, and it is just horrible, no better than $400 systems.
Fast forward to the past year or two. Consistently I've been hearing Bose speakers and thinking, this doesn't sound bad at all. I'm not saying they sound good, but I feel like they're no longer overpriced, and are actually competitive or better than similarly priced products.
To confirm my theory, I got a Bose SoundLink 2, and I think it sounds better than the highly acclaimed Big Jambox. Measuring them with REW and a UMIK-1 showed an OK frequency response. The midrange is a little recessed, but there weren't any treble boosts. In fact treble rolled off pretty hard after 13KHz.
I also got a Bose Cinemate 10 as a computer speaker. This thing was able to strongly convince me I had a left speaker when clearly the speaker is in front of me. Even when I got right in front of the speaker it still sounded like I had a left speaker. This trick is only doable if I have a wall nearby though, but still, it pseudo imaging was impressive, and it was a lot more stable than real speaker imaging. The speaker didn't sound great, but it was a very listenable type of sound that didn't make me hate listening to a low quality speaker. It no longer has the harsh treble that I remember from listening to the old Acoustimass or Lifestyle system speakers.
I was very impressed by the (sub)woofer considering the overall system price of just $500. It is capable of some very powerful bass over the range where most of the bass found in music. I got over 110dB at 45Hz (the tuning frequency). I'll find the limits of this system on another day. Yes, it is a s****y bandpass subwoofer, but nevertheless, this is much more powerful than most of the HTIBs on the market. $500 really isn't overpriced for a system like this IMO. The sound signature should sound very good to most people.
What do you guys think about the current Bose?
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budget speaker suggestions
Hi all,
I am researching how and if to upgrade my audio setup. My room is 10x12.
I currently have:
2 front LS12 Cerwin Vega
No Center channel
Two rear Cerwin Vega RE25, one with a blown cone
technics sa-gx 190 stereo receiver
Just ordered:
denon x1100w receiver
a subwoofer, the Dayton Sub 1200
How bad are my current speakers? They seem fine to me, but I don’t have much to compare it to.
Although I want a 5.1 setup ideally, I understand the front three channels would need to be the same. I have read some people think it’s better to use a virtual center channel rather than buy a cheap one. Since one of my rear speakers is blown, I thought about replacing them. I suppose there are a few options:
-Move my Cerwin Vega LS12’s to the rear, and buy either two or three new front speakers.
-Replace my rear speakers, (and don’t get a new center speaker)
What are some recommendations on a tight budget?
Thanks.
I am researching how and if to upgrade my audio setup. My room is 10x12.
I currently have:
2 front LS12 Cerwin Vega
No Center channel
Two rear Cerwin Vega RE25, one with a blown cone
technics sa-gx 190 stereo receiver
Just ordered:
denon x1100w receiver
a subwoofer, the Dayton Sub 1200
How bad are my current speakers? They seem fine to me, but I don’t have much to compare it to.
Although I want a 5.1 setup ideally, I understand the front three channels would need to be the same. I have read some people think it’s better to use a virtual center channel rather than buy a cheap one. Since one of my rear speakers is blown, I thought about replacing them. I suppose there are a few options:
-Move my Cerwin Vega LS12’s to the rear, and buy either two or three new front speakers.
-Replace my rear speakers, (and don’t get a new center speaker)
What are some recommendations on a tight budget?
Thanks.
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FS: i1pro Rev D Spectrometer
Selling a mint condition i1pro spectro. Comes with carrying case, all original accessories and tripod mount. PM me for any details. Asking $525 shipped anywhere in CONUS.
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LOL and this is just another reason to never come back
There are very few stores in my town (green bay, wi) that sell decent audio equiptment. The most overpriced and worst customer service goes to Sound World. While browsing craigslist I found this:
https://greenbay.craigslist.org/eld/4881532831.html
This is coming from "Green Bay's leader in premium audio visual equiptment"
I couldn't help but laugh, the last time I went in there I was looking to buy a deck for my car. I knew more than the salesman who had to go get one of the installers from the shop just to answer questions!!!
Just thought I'd share this quality description brought to you by Sound World!!
https://greenbay.craigslist.org/eld/4881532831.html
This is coming from "Green Bay's leader in premium audio visual equiptment"
I couldn't help but laugh, the last time I went in there I was looking to buy a deck for my car. I knew more than the salesman who had to go get one of the installers from the shop just to answer questions!!!
Just thought I'd share this quality description brought to you by Sound World!!
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AVR 255 Firmware update failure
Hi,
I have been having an issue with my Amp of late where while watching TV / Apple TV / Laptop via HDMI the TV will either turn a shade of pink, or the picture will disappear while the sound stays. A simple restart of the device solves it and all is OK. There is no frequency to it happening, no process (ie TV to Apple TV and back again) which triggers it. I have removed all cables and reseated them but the issue still occurs.
I am in a rented apartment and spoke to my Landlord and he advised me to update the Firmware, which was vastly out of date. I followed online instructions and the first time it failed because of an incorrect serial cable (null modem I guess). I found a thread here which recommended a type of serial cable (tried to link to cable I bought but my post count is less than 5) which I bought and tried the update again last night. It made more progress than before, but failed about 50% through the firmware update and now I cannot power on my device. The amber standby light is showing, but neither the remote / device power button will turn on the device - I'm guessing there is no firmware on the unit now!?
Researching a number of other forums, I found that people had similar issues and basically advised to hit reset and try the update again and again. Evetnaully I had made progress through the first 2 updates (DSP#1 & DSP#2) but not progress for the MCU update after 90 minutes of resetting.
I'm a technical guy, but have never dabbled in AV before so really at a loss here and looking for some quick help. Please post all questions / thoughts and I will try to get back as quick as I can, won't have access to the unit during my working day!
Many thanks in advance, I hav etried to attached pictures but again post count is less than 5 - happy to PM to anyone who can help!
Bryan
I have been having an issue with my Amp of late where while watching TV / Apple TV / Laptop via HDMI the TV will either turn a shade of pink, or the picture will disappear while the sound stays. A simple restart of the device solves it and all is OK. There is no frequency to it happening, no process (ie TV to Apple TV and back again) which triggers it. I have removed all cables and reseated them but the issue still occurs.
I am in a rented apartment and spoke to my Landlord and he advised me to update the Firmware, which was vastly out of date. I followed online instructions and the first time it failed because of an incorrect serial cable (null modem I guess). I found a thread here which recommended a type of serial cable (tried to link to cable I bought but my post count is less than 5) which I bought and tried the update again last night. It made more progress than before, but failed about 50% through the firmware update and now I cannot power on my device. The amber standby light is showing, but neither the remote / device power button will turn on the device - I'm guessing there is no firmware on the unit now!?
Researching a number of other forums, I found that people had similar issues and basically advised to hit reset and try the update again and again. Evetnaully I had made progress through the first 2 updates (DSP#1 & DSP#2) but not progress for the MCU update after 90 minutes of resetting.
I'm a technical guy, but have never dabbled in AV before so really at a loss here and looking for some quick help. Please post all questions / thoughts and I will try to get back as quick as I can, won't have access to the unit during my working day!
Many thanks in advance, I hav etried to attached pictures but again post count is less than 5 - happy to PM to anyone who can help!
Bryan
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Night at the Museum: Secret of the Tomb 3D in cinema? but were is bluray?
i did not watch this movie at the cinema, because here it is not shown at 3D. however when i google check on this movie i see that in los angles it was played in 3D if i am not mistaken.
i am not the biggest fan of this movie series, but still if it is 3D, i like to experience it at home on my owned bluray. if this movie was shown in 3D at cinemas but will not be released on bluray in 3D, it will be as understand it the first FOX owned movie not released on 3D bluray.
i am not the biggest fan of this movie series, but still if it is 3D, i like to experience it at home on my owned bluray. if this movie was shown in 3D at cinemas but will not be released on bluray in 3D, it will be as understand it the first FOX owned movie not released on 3D bluray.
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New Dune firmware
My D1's are telling me there is new firmware available. Anyone know what this firmware resolves? Also, I don't want to do anything that might cause conflict with YaDis. I'm perfectly happy with the way it's running now.
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Poor sound from Center and not great overall.
Hi,
I use JAMO HCS 626 as surround (5.0)
www jamo com/speaker-lines/studio/S620/?sku=S626HCS
Pluss extra 2 small sattelites for front-high and a 12' active sub.
I bought TX-NR636 to replace the 626-model and went through the wizard with auto-level setup.
I noticed that my center was not performing well(which I was experiencing with tx-nr626 also) so I bought new larger center(audiopro black vector v3)
BLACK VECTOR V3
Basreflex
1” soft silk dome
2 x 5.25”
2.300 Hz
40–30.000 Hz
90 dB
8 ohm
25–150W
Högblank svart
460x175x295 mm
but the center sound is still poor and unclear when watching movies.(either via ps4(bluray) or 1080p bluray rips.
I remember when using TX-NR626 I only had volume at about 20 and had great volume,
now with TX-nr636 I have to adjust to about 30-35 to get the same volume...
the center is still not good, have to really concentrate to hear the voice properly.
I've tried to adjust the HZ on the center but cannot really get it to work.
Please share if you have any ideas, any help is much appreciated.
I can provide the configuration if needed, but what do you need?
I use JAMO HCS 626 as surround (5.0)
www jamo com/speaker-lines/studio/S620/?sku=S626HCS
Pluss extra 2 small sattelites for front-high and a 12' active sub.
I bought TX-NR636 to replace the 626-model and went through the wizard with auto-level setup.
I noticed that my center was not performing well(which I was experiencing with tx-nr626 also) so I bought new larger center(audiopro black vector v3)
BLACK VECTOR V3
Basreflex
1” soft silk dome
2 x 5.25”
2.300 Hz
40–30.000 Hz
90 dB
8 ohm
25–150W
Högblank svart
460x175x295 mm
but the center sound is still poor and unclear when watching movies.(either via ps4(bluray) or 1080p bluray rips.
I remember when using TX-NR626 I only had volume at about 20 and had great volume,
now with TX-nr636 I have to adjust to about 30-35 to get the same volume...
the center is still not good, have to really concentrate to hear the voice properly.
I've tried to adjust the HZ on the center but cannot really get it to work.
Please share if you have any ideas, any help is much appreciated.
I can provide the configuration if needed, but what do you need?
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For Sale Digital Projection Titan 1080P 3D Dual Ultra Contrast
This is it, the rare opportunity to own the top of the line Titan 1080P 3D Dual Ultra Contrast with triple flash technology.Here is the sound and vision review review http://www.soundandvision.com/conten...titan-1080p-3d. Lens is 1.39-1.87. DPI specs 5,000:1 on/off, 5000 lumens.There is a scratch on the bottom (inverted) metal case where it says Titan. There is also scratches on the outside metal casing of Lens.
Read more at http://app.audiogon.com/listings/pro...x6tDphj4R6q.99
$20,000.00
Read more at http://app.audiogon.com/listings/pro...x6tDphj4R6q.99
$20,000.00
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KEF iQ Series Complete 5.0 Speaker System
Selling my KEF IQ Series 5.0 Speaker System
$1,500.00
Local Pick Up New Hyde Park, NY 11040 (Long Island)
KEF - Classic iQ series Speakers for Home Theater (5.0) system
Perfect Condition ! Flawless
Fantastic Sound for Movies or Music
What you get:
(2) IQ90 Front Left & Right Towers -12.8 x 17.2 x 42.8 inches ; 44 pounds
(1) IQ60c Center Channel - 20.1" W x 6.5" H x 10.0" D - Weight: 19.6 lbs
(2) IQ10 Rear Left & Right surrounds - 6.9" W x 11.8" H x 10.3" D Weight (each): 9.9 lbs
$1,500.00
Local Pick Up New Hyde Park, NY 11040 (Long Island)
KEF - Classic iQ series Speakers for Home Theater (5.0) system
Perfect Condition ! Flawless
Fantastic Sound for Movies or Music
What you get:
(2) IQ90 Front Left & Right Towers -12.8 x 17.2 x 42.8 inches ; 44 pounds
(1) IQ60c Center Channel - 20.1" W x 6.5" H x 10.0" D - Weight: 19.6 lbs
(2) IQ10 Rear Left & Right surrounds - 6.9" W x 11.8" H x 10.3" D Weight (each): 9.9 lbs
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Samsung 55H6700 picture settings.
Hi all,
i just purchased a samsung 55h6700 smart tv (my first smart tv) and I was wondering if someone could help me with the picture settings (i'm not a techy person)
all i have connected to the tv is a SKY tv box connected via HDMI which is set to 1080I.
and my xbox 360.
The picture on the tv looks very grainy and dark at times on the SD channels but clearer(still darker) on the HD ones.
I've turned off many features like motion lighting etc.
on my previous tv all the channels looks fine and I didn't have this grainy issue.
so i'm thinking the picture settings are all screwy.
sooooo, could someone help me with the calibration settings. (nothing advanced! lol)
P.s, when the xbox is on, the tv goes into game mode and the screen is super clear and ok.
thanks
i just purchased a samsung 55h6700 smart tv (my first smart tv) and I was wondering if someone could help me with the picture settings (i'm not a techy person)
all i have connected to the tv is a SKY tv box connected via HDMI which is set to 1080I.
and my xbox 360.
The picture on the tv looks very grainy and dark at times on the SD channels but clearer(still darker) on the HD ones.
I've turned off many features like motion lighting etc.
on my previous tv all the channels looks fine and I didn't have this grainy issue.
so i'm thinking the picture settings are all screwy.
sooooo, could someone help me with the calibration settings. (nothing advanced! lol)
P.s, when the xbox is on, the tv goes into game mode and the screen is super clear and ok.
thanks
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"Click and pop" coming from Rotel RB-990BX amplifier
I am experiencing a "click&pop"sound coming out from the tweeter on one of the loudspeakers in my stereao system. My amplifier Rotel RB-990BX is hooked up to a pair of KEF Reference 4 loudspeakers where I got replaced the tweeters around 3 years ago, so I immediately started blaming the tweeter replacement. However, the "click&pop" sound starts as soon as I turn on the amplifier without any input signal being applied and continues as long as there is energy in the electrolytic capacitors i.e. also a short time after the On/Off switch has been depressed and until LEDs turn off.
The protection LED turns-off shortly after turning on the amplifier so no problem with that - I am not sure if this one is for DC-bias protection or something else, but there is no problem with that one.
Has anybody experienced a similar problem with this amplifier or a similar type or a same age amplifier? What can be the reason and where should I start looking for the problem?
The protection LED turns-off shortly after turning on the amplifier so no problem with that - I am not sure if this one is for DC-bias protection or something else, but there is no problem with that one.
Has anybody experienced a similar problem with this amplifier or a similar type or a same age amplifier? What can be the reason and where should I start looking for the problem?
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Robbed - Please Help
Long time lurker, first time poster.
I have been educating myself on a future security system setup, and there's a lot of knowledge here, so thanks a lot. Though recently, my planning has been accelerated, or at least changed altogether. A quick background about my situation: I have been building my 'dream' home with my father, it's literally been a two man job with my old man, with a lot of work and struggles. We're at the two year and a half mark, and two months ago we finalized the install of impact windows and doors. Having the 'shell,' we moved in the power tools, and just recently started working on the HVAC, partitions, electricity, etc. Two nights ago, someone forced one of the windows and got in, they basically emptied the house. Stole all power equipment and tools. My old man is heartbroken, and very discouraged to say the least.
I need to install a security system. A combination of alarm and surveillance cameras. Thanks to tips from this community, I was able to pull a Cat6, Coax and Power cable to each corner of the home before the stucco, and also have firewire to each opening. My problem is that I don't know what to do... I have electricity at the house, but no internet. I want an alarm system that would at least make some noise and serve as deterrent, along with some cameras with basic 'self storage.'
The biggest challenge for me is to understand if a stop gap measure is worth it at this point, the house won't be finished for at least six more months, or just go ahead and call an ISP and get a full system going. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I have been educating myself on a future security system setup, and there's a lot of knowledge here, so thanks a lot. Though recently, my planning has been accelerated, or at least changed altogether. A quick background about my situation: I have been building my 'dream' home with my father, it's literally been a two man job with my old man, with a lot of work and struggles. We're at the two year and a half mark, and two months ago we finalized the install of impact windows and doors. Having the 'shell,' we moved in the power tools, and just recently started working on the HVAC, partitions, electricity, etc. Two nights ago, someone forced one of the windows and got in, they basically emptied the house. Stole all power equipment and tools. My old man is heartbroken, and very discouraged to say the least.
I need to install a security system. A combination of alarm and surveillance cameras. Thanks to tips from this community, I was able to pull a Cat6, Coax and Power cable to each corner of the home before the stucco, and also have firewire to each opening. My problem is that I don't know what to do... I have electricity at the house, but no internet. I want an alarm system that would at least make some noise and serve as deterrent, along with some cameras with basic 'self storage.'
The biggest challenge for me is to understand if a stop gap measure is worth it at this point, the house won't be finished for at least six more months, or just go ahead and call an ISP and get a full system going. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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How to connect CABLE TV SET TOP BOX to LCD MONITOR?
My local cable tv operator has supplied a set top box and it is having 'Composite Video Output'
This is the specification.
DVB-S MPEG-2 SD Compliant
Composite Video Output: CVBS
RF Modulator CH3/CH4 or CH21~CH69 (Optional)
Stereo Audio Output: RCA
Advanced Security Supported
Video Resolution: 576p/480p/480i
Friendly User Interface
7-day EPG (Electronic Program Guide)
Teletext, Subtitle and Closed Caption Supported
Over-The-Air Secure Software Download
Major CAS Supported (Conax/Irdeto/Nagravision/NDS/Verimatrix/Viaccess etc.)
And the LCD monitor of my PC is having both VGA and a DVI input.
Now how do i connect this set top box to this monitor. Either to VGA or to DVI input. I am not planning to buy a tv tuner card and connect my PC to set top box. Instead i want to watch, cable tv channels on my LCD monitor, without turning my PC on.
[Shall connect the audio output of set top box to a speaker separately.]
Kindly help
thank you :)
This is the specification.
DVB-S MPEG-2 SD Compliant
Composite Video Output: CVBS
RF Modulator CH3/CH4 or CH21~CH69 (Optional)
Stereo Audio Output: RCA
Advanced Security Supported
Video Resolution: 576p/480p/480i
Friendly User Interface
7-day EPG (Electronic Program Guide)
Teletext, Subtitle and Closed Caption Supported
Over-The-Air Secure Software Download
Major CAS Supported (Conax/Irdeto/Nagravision/NDS/Verimatrix/Viaccess etc.)
And the LCD monitor of my PC is having both VGA and a DVI input.
Now how do i connect this set top box to this monitor. Either to VGA or to DVI input. I am not planning to buy a tv tuner card and connect my PC to set top box. Instead i want to watch, cable tv channels on my LCD monitor, without turning my PC on.
[Shall connect the audio output of set top box to a speaker separately.]
Kindly help
thank you :)
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Is it worth getting a proper screen ?
I have a dedicated room (see below) and i have always used a sheet of 3mm foam PVC to project onto
I'm using a JVC X7 (Think it might be RS 60 your end ) the wife always moans the picture is a little "washed out" , so i was wondering if a decent (and what is decent ?) screen would make ant difference.
cheers
![]()
![]()
the screen size is around 2800mm x 1200mm
I'm using a JVC X7 (Think it might be RS 60 your end ) the wife always moans the picture is a little "washed out" , so i was wondering if a decent (and what is decent ?) screen would make ant difference.
cheers
the screen size is around 2800mm x 1200mm
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JTR Noesis 212 vs JBL 4722
A shot in the dark...but anyone auditioned both of these speakers? Is so, would you kindly comment on any comparison of the two?
They would be behind an AT screen. I've heard the 212's. Loved them. Seems the 4722 would be comparable but I've never heard them. Looking for highly efficient, dynamic speakers for a dedicated space.
Thanks for any input.
Chad
They would be behind an AT screen. I've heard the 212's. Loved them. Seems the 4722 would be comparable but I've never heard them. Looking for highly efficient, dynamic speakers for a dedicated space.
Thanks for any input.
Chad
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General Flatpanel Reliability / Longevity Expectations
My wonderful D series Samsung Plasma died on me last week and is not repairable. That is actually the second time the T.V. had issues in less than 4 years. This got me wondering, in general, has the build quality of all flat panels gone down as the product has become effectively a commodity? My 10 year old Panasonic plasma is still going strong, but it had all kinds of active cooling fans built into the design for example. I've never had any tv go out on me prior to this unit.
I know people typically show up on forums to complain, so its hard to gauge if the products are more or less reliable now than 5 years ago based on the issues i read here. I've always viewed TVs as long term capital investments (7-10 yrs) and that one should last at least as long. Are my expectations to high? What do folks expect as far as longevity? If you spend $3,000on a unit, what do you expect as far as life?
For those that live HDTV (repair/sales/calibration) what are your thoughts?
I know people typically show up on forums to complain, so its hard to gauge if the products are more or less reliable now than 5 years ago based on the issues i read here. I've always viewed TVs as long term capital investments (7-10 yrs) and that one should last at least as long. Are my expectations to high? What do folks expect as far as longevity? If you spend $3,000on a unit, what do you expect as far as life?
For those that live HDTV (repair/sales/calibration) what are your thoughts?
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Batman: Arkham Knight
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