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Xfinity/Comcast cable (set top box) with 65” LG B7

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Hey all,

I’m sure there are threads here relating to this but I’m so overwhelmed so please don’t flame me for starting a new topic. I’m not an expert but have some above average knowledge. I’ve had my tv since January and I can’t help but think the quality of cable tv on this B7 looks like pure crap. I know Comcast broadcasts in 720 (even tho I can change it to 1080p in the xfinity settings) but the image quality is just so bland and blurry. Nothing really wow’s me or looks good (only speaking to cable, uhd movies and video gamers and Netflix all that look great). Is there anything I can do to optimize this tv to make basic cable look good? I’m a huge sports fan, hockey, football, baseball, WWE (lol) and with so much movement and motion it looks awful. It’s like a huge rabbit hole and every time I set out to try and make it look the best possible I get no where. So basically I’m asking for some advice from the community on what I can do to make standard definition content look the best as possible. Help a fellow OLED owner out! Please and thanks In advance.

TCL 5-Series?

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I have the TCL 6 Series 55" and I love it. I'm looking for a smaller version for my bedroom 40-50" range and am considering the 5 series. I find little if any info here, find it odd. Any one have one? Any feedback?

Yamaha NS-515F Tweeter repair/replacement

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Hi, not new to home theater video, but definitely new to speakers. I bought a pair of Yamaha NS-515Fs from Craigslist for 100 bucks, he said that he used them and they were good to go, I didn’t have the opportunity to test them, seemed like a decent deal and they both looked good. Got them home and it seems as if one of the tweeters is busted. I switched the tweeters and the other works fine in the enclosure, so I’m guessing it’s nothing with the board. Anyway, I’m kind of out of luck trying to find tweeter replacements. I found NS-525 tweeters that look the same on the front, but they look to be just the diaphram? (I don’t know what I’m talking about there) The tweeter I have is a full enclosed module. Not sure where to start... any help is appreciated. The stamp on the back of the tweeter is x3470A0. Thanks

https://reconingspeakers.com/product...ns525-tweeter/

New Volt 10/12/15's?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 18Hurts (Post 57070808)
A few thoughts--from what I understand the 10's IB will do 80Hz with typical AVR power without issue. Note that MTG and Eric have been working on 10, 12 and 15 inch coaxials with Neo magnets as an option for LCR with a bit more sound quality mixed in. My crystal ball is hazy but I would assume that the 10 inch with neo magnets would have less depth but only they would know. I'd email Erich for information on the upcoming 10/12/15 inch coaxials for guidance--they might be what you are looking for.

There is also the option to use the 10 inch coaxial on steroids--it uses the same 10" driver but an Eminence beefy compression driver crossing at 1.5 KHz to help with beaming etc. That would be the option I'd look at for the LCRs as infinite baffle, YMMV. Good luck with your research and I hope Erich can give you news you can use. If you get the goods on the new neo coaxes--throw us a bone and let us in while you are at it.

Good luck!

I hate to tag you guys @Eric H and @mtg90 but any more details on what was being discussed above? :D

Very interested in a 12" version of the Volts and/or if there's a new 10" Volt that will mount in a shallower depth that's even better at LCR duties? Additionally as side question, how suitable (or likely not) is the Volt 10 in humid conditions such as a bathroom?

Am i being too optimistic with seating?

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I’m moving into a new house in the near future. Good news is they already have a theatre room built out. Bad news is they undersized it. I am working with a room that is 135 inches wide by 158 inches long (with a 65-80 inch TV being mounted on this wall.). We admittedly haven’t done a lot of research into specific models but we are mainly wondering what the maximum seating density can be in this room.

With a flat wall mount and some admittedly aggressive spacing between two rows of four recliners (Seatcraft Rialto middle love seat rows that are 120 inches wide by 40 deep, a 14 inch riser, and a 25-35 inch gap between the rows) it would put the viewing distance at roughly 154 inches for the back row and 80-90 inches for the second row.

Can someone sanity check these numbers for me? Am i being too aggressive? Should i go with 3 person rows? Is the second row even viable?

HDMI switch 4K HDR 8x1?

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Hi there.

I am looking for a good 8x1 4K HDR HDMI switch.

So far, I've found plenty of 1x8, but very few 8x1.

ATEN VanCryst VS0801HB seems excellent, but it's a bit expensive.

Any suggestions on working 8-port switches from you fellas?

Is Denon's implementation of HDMI-CEC really this bad?

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Hi all,

So I recently bought a Denon X3500h to replace my aging Onkyo SR-608, and since setting it up, the HDMI-CEC part has been a PITA!

So to give some context, my current base setup is:

Nvidia Shield TV -> Denon X3500h -> LG OLED B7

Before, the setup was identical with the Onkyo instead of the Denon, and my typical usage scenario would allow me to turn ON and OFF devices using only the TVs remote. Turning ON the TV would also turn ON the AVR. Switching to the Shield input would also trigger it to turn ON, switching back to TV input would turn OFF the Shield. Turning OFF the TV would turn everything OFF, etc.

But now, I have yet to find a way to actually turn OFF all my devices, with the main issue being that when I have my TV and AVR ON, with the Shield OFF, turning OFF the TV would also turn the AVR OFF, but the Shield turns ON reversing everything, turning my AVR back ON, turning my TV back ON.

It seems that when the Denon turns OFF it sends a wrong HDMI-CEC message that actually wakes up the Shield! No matter what setting I tried I cannot get my system to turn OFF if I'm watching TV only and the Shield is OFF.

I can't turn off CEC completely as then ARC won't function, and so far I'm out of ideas. How is CEC this bad on Denon AVRs?

Denon X3500H vs Yamaha A1080

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Hi,

I'm looking to buy a new receiver. My current 5.2 Home theater set up is:

1. Denon X 3100 receiver + 2x4HD miniDsp for subs
2. Front 3 are :Ascend Acoustics Sierra 2's with 2x In wall speakers for rear
3. Subs: 2x SVS PC-12

I live close to a Fry's store. I can get the X3500 for around $500-550, The Yamaha on sale will most likely be around $1000, maybe $750-800 at best. They never go lower than that.

I have done a decent bit of research on both. Most people say that Denon has better features, but Yamaha has better build quality. I guess all things aside, I just want to know which of the two has better sound quality? Is it worth spending the extra $300-$500 on the Yamaha?

fyi... there is no sale currently, But these prices pop up every few months. I'm hoping there'll be one prior to Christmas.

Any advice would be great. Thanks.

Optoma UHD65 4K Projector for $1,999 at PP (Black Friday Deal)

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Thought I'd pass this along for those interested...

Decided to finally take the 4K plunge and was pleasantly surprised to see this deal at ProjectorPeople.com earlier today. When you add it to your cart you get $300 off the standard $2,299 price. You also get an additional 5% off when your order exceeds $2,000. Threw in an HDMI cable to do that (otherwise it would've been 4% off). Basically got the cable for free but it did slow down the shipping speed.

Code:

1 x        Optoma UHD65 4K UHD 2200 Lumen Home Cinema (OPTUHD65)        $1,999.00
1 x        Free Roku Premier 4K Streaming Media Player (ROK3920R)        $0.00
1 x        Comprehensive Video Pro AV/IT 18Gb 4K High Speed HDMI Cable 3ft Black (COMHD18G3PROBLK)        $18.99

        Subtotal:        $2,017.99

        Coupon: Save up to an extra 5% on every order during our 2018 Black Friday Sale.        - $100.90

        Shipping: FedEx Ground        $0.00
        Tax:        $182.12
        Order Total:        $2,099.21

Couldn't use an additional $100 off your first order promo code because this projector is specifically excluded (among others), otherwise this would've been $2,000 shipped with tax. Oh, well! ;)

Here's the link:

https://www.projectorpeople.com/Opto...rojector/41656

Black Friday Soundbar Deals 2018

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I was researching on the Black Friday deals to get a soundbar for my bedroom. In the end I got a set of Nakamichi ultra 9.2 at $849 which is a steal. it is down from $1099 with 2 subs, 4 rear speakers, dtsx and Dolby Atmos vision coming via firmware upgrade next month.

Below are the soundbar deals I found so far. I hope it is going to save some of your time hunting around.

Vizio 36" 2.1 soundbar SB3621 - $98
+ simple to setup, wireless dedicated sub
- no HDMI, simulated surround sound, no LED display
Walmart (4.5 stars)
https://slickdeals.net/f/12275233-vi...src=SiteSearch

Bose Solo (factory-refurbished) - $100
+ small form factor, simple to use (PnP)
- no HDMI, no sub, no rear speaker
Ebay (4.7 stars)
https://slickdeals.net/f/12284197-bo...src=SiteSearch

Sony 2.1 channel Soundbar HT-CT290 - $148 ($299)
+ 300W, small profile, clear voice mode
- Simulated surround, no hdmi
Amazon (3.4 stars)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792SBYZ8...7c7f093aa429c0

Vizio 36" 5.1 channel soundbar SB3651 - $149
+ Wireless Sub, true 5.1 discrete surround, wifi streaming
- Small 5" subwoofer, tiny surround speaker, Eco power feature seesm buggy, no LED display
Costco (4.0 stars)
https://slickdeals.net/f/12276298-vi...src=SiteSearch

JBL 2.1 channel soundbar - $179 ($249)
+ simple to setup, small footprint
- no Dolby Atmos, no DTSX, no hdmi
Newegg, Frys.com
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...63&ignorebbr=1

Samsung 2 channel soundbarHW-MS550 - $197 ($399)
+ simple to setup, small profile, works with Alexa
- no sub, no DTSX, no Dolby Atmos
Newegg
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...89&ignorebbr=1

Vizio 5.1 channel soundbar - $199 ($249)
+ 5.1 true surround, wireless sub, WiFi streaming
- 1 hdmi input only, no Dolby Atmos, no DTS:X, no Dolby Vision
dell.com
https://deals.dell.com/productdetail/1emq

Yamaha 36" 2.1 channel soundbar ATS-2070 - $219
+ DTS Virtual X virtual surround, 1 hdmi input, 1 hdmi arc
- Simulated surround, no rear speaker
Costco (4.5 stars)
https://slickdeals.net/f/12230671-co...src=SiteSearch

Klipsch 2.1 channel Soundbar R-10B - $279 ($499)
+ 2 way soundbar (tweeter + mid range), wireless sub, simple to setup
- no Dolby Atmos/DTS:X, no 4K passthru, no HDMI
Amazon (4.0)
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-10B...ipsch+soundbar

LG Dolby Atmos Soundbar SK10Y - $379 ($899)
+ 5.1.2 channel, Dolby Atmos support, 4K passthru, 2 hdmi inputs, Wifi streaming
- no Dolby Vision, no DTS:X, surround effects rely on wall reflection
Massdrop (4.1 stars)
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/lg-sk9y...eviews#reviews

Sony Dolby Atmos 2.1 channel Soundbar HT-X9000F - $399 ($599)
+ Dolby Atmos/DTSX support, Dolby vision support
- height effect is questionable, 2.1 channel, simulated surround, 1 hdmi input
Amazon (4.4 stars)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792SBYZ8...7c7f093aa429c0

Nakamichi 5.2 channel soundbar Shockwafe Plus 5.2 - $429 ($599)
+ Two 8" subs, 3 HDMI inputs, 1 HDMI ARC, side effect tweeters for wider sound
- Simulated surround sound, bigger space needed for dual subs
Amazon (4.4 stars)
https://www.amazon.com/d/Surround-So...Bsoundbar&th=1

Nakamichi 7.1 channel soundbar Shockwafe Pro 7.1 DTSX - $549 ($649)
+ 7.1.4 channels, Dolby Atmos/Vision upgrade, DTSX, 3 HDMI inputs, 1 HDMI ARC,
- Single subwoofer, wired rear speakers connected to subwoofer
Amazon (4.4 stars)
https://slickdeals.net/f/12284188-na...src=SiteSearch

Nakamichi 7.2 channel soundbar Shockwafe Elite 7.2 DTSX - $649 ($799)
+ 7.2.4 channels, Dolby Atmos/Vision upgrade, DTSX, 2 x 8” subs, 3 HDMI inputs, 1 HDMI ARC
- bigger space needed for dual subs, wired rear speakers connected to subwoofer
Amazon (4.4 stars)
https://slickdeals.net/f/12284188-na...src=SiteSearch

Sony Dolby Atmos 3.1 Soundbar HT-ZF9 - $699 ($899)
+ Dolby Atmos/DTSX support, dolby vision support, works with Alexa
- heigh effect is questionable, simulated surround, small 6” sub
Amazon (3.9 stars)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0793HNSQG...7c7f093aa429b2

Nakamichi 45" 9.2 channel soundbar Shockwafe Ultra 9.2 DTSX - $849 ($1099)
+ 9.2.4 channels, Dolby Atmos/Vision upgrade, DTSX, 2 x 10" subs, 4 x rear speakers, 3 HDMI inputs, 1 HDMI ARC
- bigger space needed for dual subs and 4 rear speakers, wired rear speakers connected to subwoofer
Amazon (4.4 stars)
https://slickdeals.net/f/12284188-na...src=SiteSearch

Feel free to chip in any soundbar deals you found and we can keep building on the list:)

Happy hunting!

Panamorph UH-480 Mechanized Lens Sled For Sale

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Up for sale is a Panamorph UH480 Anamorphic Lens + ATH1 Motorized Sled + RPM Chief Mounting Plate for what I recall was a JVC DLA RS-2. I have the remote for it, but normally you'd control the sled via the 12 volt trigger port from your projector.

This is all in immaculate condition. The lens housing has no scratches or marks and the lens itself is in like new condition. There are no scratches, marks, blemishes or anything inside or outside of the lens. Like-new. The same goes for the motorized sled. I don’t have the mounting plate nuts/bolts/mounting accessories needed to attach the lens/sled to the plate.

Price: $2495 + Actual Shipping Costs

Dipping into AV world with a 3.1 Set Up

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Hi all,

I've been using computer speakers for my home theater system and I'd like to upgrade to a 3.1 system. I'm planning on purchasing a Denon AVRX1400H and L/R bookshelf speakers and then slowly building up to a 3.1 set up. I'd like to purchase the speakers from Best Buy because I have a $100 gift card to use. However, they don't carry many of the speakers recommended here such as Emotiva/HTD/Chane.

I went to my nearby Best Buy because I was interested in the ELAC B6.2's ($150 for the pair), but came away wanting more. Currently, I'm leaning towards the Martin Logan Motion 4i's ($424 for the pair). Am I going overboard? I ask because I don't hear many people talking about Martin Logan's here.

This set up will be for 90% movies and 10% music. The Denon receiver is available for $300. I would not want to spend more than the 4i's. I am only interested in a 3.1 system for now and have a small living room as shown.

Any recommendations would be great. Building a sound system feels a little overwhelming/intimidating so any advice is greatly appreciated.

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Need help with new 75" TV, Ditching a 65" Pseries

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I have a 2015 or 16 P series(has black rectangular base) with a row of LEDs out on it. It is still watchable but very annoying. Looking at a new 75" for under $2k.

How would a new Samsung Q6 or MU8000 compare to the older P series? I've read pages upon pages here but cannot find any info to really compare the sets to the Pseries. I am Costco member so I was leaning towards their deals. Vizio really left a bad taste in my mouth so Im leaning towards another brand. I don't think I can swing the price of an Oled or Q9.

I wish I could bring my TV to the store and look at them side by side. I also don't want to abuse the return policy and buy just to check them out next to mine at my house.

I suck at going into the store and comparing. Especially with the extra color pop those tv's have. I wish they would just run a sports loop on the TV's instead of the crazy 4k color video they have since most of what I watch is just 1080 anyway.

Am I upgrading the Pseries with either set, other then just the size? I mean the Pseries looks ok but the blacks arent very good watching HD cable.

Fix or Upgrade Onkyo TX-NR3007?

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I have a Onkyo TX-NR3007 that I purchased about 8-9 years ago. I've had some of the common HDMI issues including sound dropping out and picture output issues. My current setup in the main room is an Epson projector, 3 front 2 side and 2 ceiling rear speakers plus a sub. I also have a second room that I have an LCD tv in with zone 2 speakers. From the other threads it sounds like Onkyo is fairly responsive in fixing these issues even outside of the warranty. My question is should I fix my Onkyo or is it a better option to buy a lower priced current model receiver? I assume technology has significantly changed and from what I've read wifi, spotify, chrome cast and other features would be nice. The Sony STRDN1080 receiver comes up quite often and seems to be priced well. The next step up looks to be some of the Denon models in the $500-700 range. Are there any other models to look at in the $350-650 range? At some point I will probably upgrade the projector as well but for now I'm just trying to decide what to do with the receiver. Thanks!

Sony HW40ES only $599 obo

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I have a Sony HW40es Projector for sale.


It's still on its first bulb and has relatively low hours at only 1617 hours. See attached picture.


I just replaced this projector with a new JVC RS540, but to be honest, other than a slight increase in black level, I think I wasted my money. The Sony 40es is quieter than the JVC on full lamp mode (low mode is about the same, though) and is almost silent, actually.


My room isn't a bat cave yet. It's still under construction, so maybe when everything gets blacked out I'll be more impressed with the JVC, but comparing the two in my room as it stands, the Sony 40es is really close.



There is a small issue with the Sony 40es, though, which is the reason for the low price.


You can't really see this unless there is a very bright or white scene, but on the top left and top right corners, there is a purple streak.


I've attached a full screen picture and you can't really see it in the picture and it isn't visible with normal viewing, but I want to be honest and mention it is there.


It could be the bulb and it's possible a new bulb will fix it, but the existing bulb still has thousands of hours left on it, and since you can't really see it in 99% of content I haven't fooled with trying to fix it.


I've bought and sold many things on AVS and have references available if necessary.


Thanks,


--J

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Will Cores be okay?

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I recently picked up an Onkyo TX-NR676 and a set of Sony Core Towers, bookshelf speakers, and a center. On paper the Onkyo says it puts out 210 watts @ 6 ohms. The bookshelves say they are only rated at 100 and the towers and center say 145. Will I be alright if I don't turn the volume way up or should I possibly be looking at returning the receiver and getting something a little less powerful? Thanks

Multiple Source intelligent switching

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Hello, I am just installed some new ceiling speakers in my living room to replace Google Home MAX speakers. I have three sources I would like to be able to feed into this and being everything in my house is being replaced with Google Home and voice activation capabilities. I would like something that can either allow me to switch the source by voice or auto magically based on last line feed to come in gets the keys to the gate. Whether is be auto sensing, analog or digital...beggars cannot be choosers.

The source hardware...
1) Samsung Smart TV with a Google Chromecast as well.
2) Google Audio Chromecast to cast Spotify, Pandora, etc from phones and good home voice commands.
3) Not purchased yet, record player. Leaning towards the U-Turn Audio at this point with built in Pre-Amp
I appreciate any and all input as I am a complete nub to this and have not found the right good search yet and have been spinning my wheels for a year now on this.

Shallow Subwoofer design

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Anyone know of any plans, or even better, pre-fabricated kits, for a shallow but medium-large subwoofer? Ideally a sealed sub (no port). I'm thinking a 12-15" woofer, with a box that is around 12" deep, but can be as tall and wide as needed to have decent cabinet volume.

This is to be able to set it into a false wall at the front of the home theater, so it can be hidden behind speaker cloth.

As an example of a similar shape, at parts express you can get the Dayton Audio SUB-1000L 10", which has a box that is only 6 inches deep, but this isn't quite as powerful as I'd like.

Roku Ultra having strange connection/sync issues, maybe HDCP?

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So I've upgraded my setup recently and now my Roku is being a little weird. When I have my receiver switch to Roku, or when I turn things on and it is already selected sometimes, but not always, it'll fail to display anything. My TV says that it is getting no signal, which only happens if the receiver in on an input that is hooked up but not outputting (if it is on a disconnected channel it displays "Denon" on the screen). Switching inputs to a different one and back or disconnecting and reconnecting the cable seems to basically always fix it. Once it does display, there's no errors. No static, dropouts, etc it works flawlessly as long as it stays on. I did not have this problem with my last setup. Neither of my other devices (Windows PC or Panasonic Blu-ray player) seem to have any issues, just the Roku.

Currently I have the Roku hooked via HDMI to a Denon AVR-X4400H and that hooked by HDMI to a Vizio P65-F1. Both the Denon and TV are set up to do full bandwidth HDMI 2.0 and the Roku plays 4k HDR signals no issues. It also confirms it has HDCP 2.2 sync'd up fine. The cables are all short (6 feet) and brand new.

Previously I had the Roku hooked via HDMI to a Denon 3808CI and that hooked by HDMI to an old Samsung 1080p TV.

Anyone have any ideas?

Looking for Oppo 203 - Rack Mount Kit RMK-203

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Lets hope these do not command extortion pricing like the players!


Let me know what you have please.

Happy Thanksgiving.

Shipped via paypal to NC, 28412
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