I am new to the forum and hope I can get some feedback. I am interested in either the Onkyo TX-NR787 or the Onkyo TX-RZ820. Both are the same price right now. I am not sure the difference between the two series. The 787 is 9.2 and the 820 7.1. I would like a 9.2 setup but not sure if the RZ would be a good buy and thought I could always use a separate amp later to add the Atmos is I wanted.
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Onkyo RZ vs NR Series
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White Christmas 2012 Restoration/Transfer Details?
It is a bit of a tradition to watch White Christmas on the big screen each year. This is the first year with the RS640...so it was even more impressive than ever. This catalog title clearly got top-notch restoration treatment. Given it was from 1954 and VistaVision, that must have been a significant undertaking. I always enjoy reading or watching the details of such, but there is not info on the disc extras and I've not found anything searching on line. Anybody here know any details on that?
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XTZ vs BK electronics vs svs
What sub would peform best for the price?
Atm im looking at the XTZ 12.17 edge, svs pb1000/2000 and at BK electonics idk what to pick yet as i cant find that much info.
I would like to keep my budget at around 500€ the BK electonics are all around that price or lower but are they worth it?
The xtz one is about 700€ the svs pb-1000 is 600€ and the svs pb-2000 is 1000€
Atm im looking at the XTZ 12.17 edge, svs pb1000/2000 and at BK electonics idk what to pick yet as i cant find that much info.
I would like to keep my budget at around 500€ the BK electonics are all around that price or lower but are they worth it?
The xtz one is about 700€ the svs pb-1000 is 600€ and the svs pb-2000 is 1000€
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Dali Opticon 6 Listening Fatigue?
I listened to the Dali Opticon 6 this week and really liked the sound. However, the sales guy said they could easily create listening fatigue. Does anyone here have experience with this or could anyone shed their opinion about this please.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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R300 / R3 with sub or R500
I have a Hegel H90 int. amp. and considering now which speakers to buy.
I have listened to a lot of speakers recently (Dali Opticon 6, B&W 704 & 705 S2, Audiovector QR3, MA Silver 200+300, KEF R3 & R7, Piega Classic 5.0 and XTZ 99.36 FLR) but all without subwoofer.
I will probably buy a subwoofer anyway later on so my question is whether a good bookshelf like the R3 or R300 would be a better deal than buying the larger floorstanding models.
The previous R series are extremely cheap now compared to the new R-series (R300 €700 per set vs. €1500 per set for the R3) so I am wondering whether the new R-series is worth that price difference. I haven't been able to compare them A/B.
I have listened to a lot of speakers recently (Dali Opticon 6, B&W 704 & 705 S2, Audiovector QR3, MA Silver 200+300, KEF R3 & R7, Piega Classic 5.0 and XTZ 99.36 FLR) but all without subwoofer.
I will probably buy a subwoofer anyway later on so my question is whether a good bookshelf like the R3 or R300 would be a better deal than buying the larger floorstanding models.
The previous R series are extremely cheap now compared to the new R-series (R300 €700 per set vs. €1500 per set for the R3) so I am wondering whether the new R-series is worth that price difference. I haven't been able to compare them A/B.
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Vizio 36" SmartCast 5.1 Wireless vs YAMAHA YAS-207 Which better?
Vizio 36" SmartCast 5.1 Wireless vs YAMAHA YAS-207 which one should I get.
I have 2 room that need sound bars for the TV.
Which one of these 2 options would be better.
I have read around and editor choice have been given to both.
I am thinking maybe one of each unless there is a clear winner here.
Please let me know what you think about these 2 sound bars?
Thanks.
I have 2 room that need sound bars for the TV.
Which one of these 2 options would be better.
I have read around and editor choice have been given to both.
I am thinking maybe one of each unless there is a clear winner here.
Please let me know what you think about these 2 sound bars?
Thanks.
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Panasonic DMR-EH75V
Anyone know where I can get EH75V power supply Schematics or tell me which caps need to be replaced to make the DVD work?
↧
LG webOS TV UH6150
If there's a OP topic for this series of LG 4K sets, redirect the post there.
In the meantime, is there anyway to fit the edge lit ghost effect the screen has? 4K content is breathtaking, but I miss those plasma like black levels.
Is that one website still available? With pre-made TV calibrations for a wide range of TVs?
In the meantime, is there anyway to fit the edge lit ghost effect the screen has? 4K content is breathtaking, but I miss those plasma like black levels.
Is that one website still available? With pre-made TV calibrations for a wide range of TVs?
↧
WTB - Fusion 12 Tempest
Just putting a feeler out there if someone might be thinking of upgrading there Fusions to something else. I already have a line on 4 and I am looking for 2 more. They can be built already or not.
Thanks for looking.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for looking.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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ViewSonic PX727-4K & PX747-4k for $999 Each
Just noticed that street prices for the PX727-4K and PX747-4K have both been at $999 for some time now from multiple trusted vendors.
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Monster Power HTS-1650, Home Theater Reference Power Center, Surge Protection, Filter
$100 Excellent condition. Fully tested. Located in 08052. Buyer pays shipping from 08052 NJ. 15 x 3 x 16- 9 pound box.
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Manufacturers Description
The HTS 1650 gives your HDTV and digital AV electronics the advanced protection they need. For a triple layer of safety, the HTS 1650 protects against power surges and spikes on all three power lines (line, neutral, ground). With over 5,526 Joules of surge absorption capacity, the HTS1650 provides a very high level of protection.
Monster’s reputation for producing reliable and convenient connectivity solutions continues with the new HTS 1650. It is a chassis based eight outlet power distribution unit which boasts many new technologies all working to protect your valuable connected equipment. Housed in a stylish 2RU high cabinet, the HTS 1650 is the perfect compliment in both style and size to accompany other AV components, such as AV receivers, Blu-ray players and PVR’s, and is also at home on a shelf in a full sized equipment rack.
Banks of outlets with isolation filters optimised for digital, analogue audio and ultra high current audio – make the HTS1650 great for today’s high quality Home Theatre
systems
Monster tri-mode provides advanced surge protection and safety. Patented tri-mode circuitry uses relays, MOVs, and thermal fuses to protect against dangerous power surges, dips and spikes that can travel over all three power lines (Line, Neutral, Ground). When it senses dangerous power conditions, Tri-Mode automatically disconnects AV components and sounds an audible alarm, letting you know that HTS1650 has protected your AV components.
Microprocessor-controlled T2 circuitry takes protection a step further. T2 automatically disconnects the PowerCenter itself and your equipment from both live power lines (line and neutral), and reconnects ONLY when power levels are safe. Unlike other surge protectors, T2 will NOT sacrifice itself when a potentially damaging power overload hits, and keeps on protecting with no reduction in performance.
The Digital LED Voltmeter continuously displays the incoming line voltage so you can readily identify the source of power trouble. Individual colour coded indicator lights confirm the operational status of the HTS1650.
It is essential for full protection that all of your component’s inputs and outlets are protected, or the entire system will be vulnerable. Often missed are telephone lines and cable/satellite connections, which can carry dangerous power surges and spikes to your equipment. The Monster HTS 1650 features comprehensive protection with coax, network and phone connections full Free to Air TV, cable/satellite, TiVo and HDTV protection.
Manufacturers Description
The HTS 1650 gives your HDTV and digital AV electronics the advanced protection they need. For a triple layer of safety, the HTS 1650 protects against power surges and spikes on all three power lines (line, neutral, ground). With over 5,526 Joules of surge absorption capacity, the HTS1650 provides a very high level of protection.
Monster’s reputation for producing reliable and convenient connectivity solutions continues with the new HTS 1650. It is a chassis based eight outlet power distribution unit which boasts many new technologies all working to protect your valuable connected equipment. Housed in a stylish 2RU high cabinet, the HTS 1650 is the perfect compliment in both style and size to accompany other AV components, such as AV receivers, Blu-ray players and PVR’s, and is also at home on a shelf in a full sized equipment rack.
Banks of outlets with isolation filters optimised for digital, analogue audio and ultra high current audio – make the HTS1650 great for today’s high quality Home Theatre
systems
Monster tri-mode provides advanced surge protection and safety. Patented tri-mode circuitry uses relays, MOVs, and thermal fuses to protect against dangerous power surges, dips and spikes that can travel over all three power lines (Line, Neutral, Ground). When it senses dangerous power conditions, Tri-Mode automatically disconnects AV components and sounds an audible alarm, letting you know that HTS1650 has protected your AV components.
Microprocessor-controlled T2 circuitry takes protection a step further. T2 automatically disconnects the PowerCenter itself and your equipment from both live power lines (line and neutral), and reconnects ONLY when power levels are safe. Unlike other surge protectors, T2 will NOT sacrifice itself when a potentially damaging power overload hits, and keeps on protecting with no reduction in performance.
The Digital LED Voltmeter continuously displays the incoming line voltage so you can readily identify the source of power trouble. Individual colour coded indicator lights confirm the operational status of the HTS1650.
It is essential for full protection that all of your component’s inputs and outlets are protected, or the entire system will be vulnerable. Often missed are telephone lines and cable/satellite connections, which can carry dangerous power surges and spikes to your equipment. The Monster HTS 1650 features comprehensive protection with coax, network and phone connections full Free to Air TV, cable/satellite, TiVo and HDTV protection.
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FS - OPPO BDP-103 - Like New ($350 shipped CONUS)
Selling my like new OPPO BDP-103. It'd be a stretch if it's had more than two or three BluRay discs ever loaded in it since I bought it new in May '16 from Amazon (not a 3rd party on Amazon). The rest of the time it's been sitting off plugged into an APC SMT-1500 UPS.
I did fire it up yesterday and installed the newest firmware and reset to factory defaults for you while capturing a couple of the pictures you see below.
You will get everything pictured, including most of the original packaging I kept. I will double box it, and ship UPS/USPS with insurance.
Paypal only.
Thanks for looking.
Karson
I did fire it up yesterday and installed the newest firmware and reset to factory defaults for you while capturing a couple of the pictures you see below.
You will get everything pictured, including most of the original packaging I kept. I will double box it, and ship UPS/USPS with insurance.
Paypal only.
Thanks for looking.
Karson
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Control4: Getting Started
Hi I’m comparing some options for a more integrated home automation system and control4 looks like it could be a viable option depending on price
To start off with I’m looking to integrate
- isy/Insteon for lights
- harmony elite + hub
- DoorBird video doorbell
- Sonos
What components would’ve required and do you have a sense of how much this would cost (I’m based in Toronto, Canada)
To start off with I’m looking to integrate
- isy/Insteon for lights
- harmony elite + hub
- DoorBird video doorbell
- Sonos
What components would’ve required and do you have a sense of how much this would cost (I’m based in Toronto, Canada)
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Suggestions for new set up for $200-3000!
I’d love to get your thoughts and recommendations as I am working on putting together a new system basically from scratch.
A little info for you. I have been around music for a long time working with a number of bands and concert venues. I have always gravitated towards a warmer sound (I instinctively think tube amp when I think of the type of guitar amp I would want or nowadays something like a Berhinger that can simulate a tube sound among many other options because depending on the style of music, there may be occasions I’d want a more solid state sound.) I listen to pretty much all types of music but often listen to indie rock, shoegazer, alternative, edm, hip-hop, remixes, etc.
I work for a nonprofit and have a hard time justifying spending so much money on speakers considering what I make. But music means so much to me and I have been saving up for a new system for a while. Even with that, it’s (relatively) really a tight budget.
This system is going to have to serve for both music & home theater purposes. Let’s say 50/50 split music & movies.
As mentioned, I work for a nonprofit. Actually, my wife and I work for a college ministry with 2 focused ministries. One is for the general college student population and the other is for international college students. I say all that to say we will host events & parties at our house for students where we will play music and dance, as well as have a set up for karaoke. I plan to attach a 4 channel mixer to the system so I can run some mics and computer for karaoke parties, especially for the internationals. The karaoke is less of a factor in this discussion really but the parties are still.
Not that I expect this to achieve club levels or anything but…
The environment: Well, we just bought a fixer upper. We are currently giving it an overhaul with our remodeling renovations. The house is pretty empty. So, currently listening to a set up is far from ideal. Even when we get things set up, it will still not be the best acoustical environment. This area is an open floor plan with a funky layout. It has concrete floors. We will probably throw down an area rug or maybe two.
We will have a sectional in front of the tv/front speakers with the main seating facing about 9 feet from the wall.
The speakers will probably not be able to be placed an ideal distance from the wall but placed on top of an entertainment system cabinets. Nor will there be a natural sweet spot for listening to music as this will often happen as I am up and moving and not simply sitting in the hot seat. A sweet spot will be more true for movie viewing but again when hosting a movie night there could be upwards of 20-30 people scattered around the great room area with varied viewing/listening angles.
Ideally, I’d love to have a 5.1 set up… well, ideally I’d love to have an atmos set up but I’m trying to be realistic. :)
I have considered a 4.1 set up due to budgeting limitations but also because after listening to a recent 2.1 set up in this far from ideal empty house I felt like something was missing. One conclusion I came to was that I like to feel like I’m overcome by the music (surrounded/enveloped). So, I felt like a multichannel stereo or dolby listening experience might be what I need but I don’t know.
I was listening to KEF LS50’s with a SVS SB 1000 on a Denon AVR X1500h that had not been set up yet with Audessey or really configured much at all beyond the basic plug and play. I recognize my environment is harsh and could also play a factor. I have considered trading the x1500h for the x3400h as it would have 105 watts vs 80 or 85 watts. I’ve heard people say that the LS50’s need at least 100 watts to really sound good despite KEF’s claims. Idk.
I chose these per a Best Buy recommendation based on my budget, aesthetic desire for white speakers (these LS50’s do look sweet).
I did also audition the LS50W’s (powered) and when they were cranked, the highs seemed too harsh for me. I had to ask it to be turned down. This was in a listening room at Best Buy. At the time, I didn’t make the connection.
I do like the LS50’s and think they sound good on the one hand but still feel like something is missing. Would adding rears (and maybe a center) make the difference? Idk. Turning up the bass helps but still… I also wonder about listening fatigue with these.
I will listen at low to medium levels but do definitely like to crank it up and rock out so to speak. Again, these LS50’s often seem harsh when cranking it up. Turning up the bass and dropping the treble a notch does help but…
I also often listen on shuffle and noticed that I kept wanting to tweak the eq with different songs to get a better sound when it was turned up… but this is far from ideal. Most of the music I listen to I suppose would be considered poor recording quality in the audiophile world.
I also do love the way the LS50’s look. Aesthetics are important to me. While my ideal is to get white speakers, I could be open to dropping that for blacks. But aesthetics will take a back seat to other things as necessary.
I do have a turntable but it has a preamp built in so I can get by without a preamp in the receiver. It’s also far from my main music listening source.
At this stage, I have been considering buying a bunch of different types to audition and compare in my home environment to see what I like best. Some of the ones I had been thinking about include (but I’m still learning and being exposed to new ones):
KEF LS50’s, Q150’s, Q350’s, center?
Canton Vento (accessories4less.com) for front & center, not sure about rears
Elac Debut 2.0, Unifi Slim or maybe Unifi UB5 ?
SVS Ultras for Front, Primes for rear, not sure about center (B&W?)
B&W’s 600’s, htm7
I feel like I should probably rule these out but they were a consideration.
Kef T205
Bose Acoustimas 10
Others???
Reviews of the Buchardts sound promising too but not sure how I could make those work with a full setup.
I again was leaning toward the SVS sub as it was the most regularly recommended “best” sub option but am open to other ideas on this too.
And I’m looking at bookshelves not towers.
Oh, and the all important question of budget. My ideal budget would be $2000 all in. However, I believe I can swing taking that up to $2500 or even $3000 if I really, really stretch it. I would basically be planning/hoping on this system lasting us for decades
I picked up the Denon x1500h for $400. The Denon x3400h is going for $600 ($500 refurbished). The SVS SB1000 was $600 and LS50’s $1000. All are still in the window for free returns.
I’m far from a true audiophile but I do love audio and have a more discerning ear than that random guy on the street I’d say.
So, with all that said, I’d love to hear your thoughts and any recommendations you could make for speakers/systems I should check out.
Oh, I’d prefer not to buy something that I’d have to return and pay for shipping/restocking fee and lose out on money. I just don’t have it to be throwing away. That is one challenge with the Cantons.
One last thought, I am leaning toward getting Sennheiser PXC550’s (waiting for them to drop below $200 again) over Bose QC35’s & Sony 1000MX3’s. The Bose and Sony NC bothered my ears but on top of that I just like the sound of the Sennheiser’s better. Granted a room system is different than headphones in a number of ways but I threw that in for what it’s worth.
As an added note, I've always preferred studio recordings to live as well. And I was thinking about my headphone comment, I do think the Bose headphones sound good but the NC was messing with me whereas the Sennheiser's sounded great and the NC didn't hurt my ears.
Oh, I have until mid January to return the Kef's / SVS. So, it is a relatively short window unfortunately.
I recognize this is all a challenge in many ways and is largely dependent on personal tastes and whatnot but I appreciate you taking time to think and guide me in this process.
Any insights and leads you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
(Sorry this is so long but in some ways figured it's better to provide more detail to hopefully produce more relevant results.)
A little info for you. I have been around music for a long time working with a number of bands and concert venues. I have always gravitated towards a warmer sound (I instinctively think tube amp when I think of the type of guitar amp I would want or nowadays something like a Berhinger that can simulate a tube sound among many other options because depending on the style of music, there may be occasions I’d want a more solid state sound.) I listen to pretty much all types of music but often listen to indie rock, shoegazer, alternative, edm, hip-hop, remixes, etc.
I work for a nonprofit and have a hard time justifying spending so much money on speakers considering what I make. But music means so much to me and I have been saving up for a new system for a while. Even with that, it’s (relatively) really a tight budget.
This system is going to have to serve for both music & home theater purposes. Let’s say 50/50 split music & movies.
As mentioned, I work for a nonprofit. Actually, my wife and I work for a college ministry with 2 focused ministries. One is for the general college student population and the other is for international college students. I say all that to say we will host events & parties at our house for students where we will play music and dance, as well as have a set up for karaoke. I plan to attach a 4 channel mixer to the system so I can run some mics and computer for karaoke parties, especially for the internationals. The karaoke is less of a factor in this discussion really but the parties are still.
Not that I expect this to achieve club levels or anything but…
The environment: Well, we just bought a fixer upper. We are currently giving it an overhaul with our remodeling renovations. The house is pretty empty. So, currently listening to a set up is far from ideal. Even when we get things set up, it will still not be the best acoustical environment. This area is an open floor plan with a funky layout. It has concrete floors. We will probably throw down an area rug or maybe two.
We will have a sectional in front of the tv/front speakers with the main seating facing about 9 feet from the wall.
The speakers will probably not be able to be placed an ideal distance from the wall but placed on top of an entertainment system cabinets. Nor will there be a natural sweet spot for listening to music as this will often happen as I am up and moving and not simply sitting in the hot seat. A sweet spot will be more true for movie viewing but again when hosting a movie night there could be upwards of 20-30 people scattered around the great room area with varied viewing/listening angles.
Ideally, I’d love to have a 5.1 set up… well, ideally I’d love to have an atmos set up but I’m trying to be realistic. :)
I have considered a 4.1 set up due to budgeting limitations but also because after listening to a recent 2.1 set up in this far from ideal empty house I felt like something was missing. One conclusion I came to was that I like to feel like I’m overcome by the music (surrounded/enveloped). So, I felt like a multichannel stereo or dolby listening experience might be what I need but I don’t know.
I was listening to KEF LS50’s with a SVS SB 1000 on a Denon AVR X1500h that had not been set up yet with Audessey or really configured much at all beyond the basic plug and play. I recognize my environment is harsh and could also play a factor. I have considered trading the x1500h for the x3400h as it would have 105 watts vs 80 or 85 watts. I’ve heard people say that the LS50’s need at least 100 watts to really sound good despite KEF’s claims. Idk.
I chose these per a Best Buy recommendation based on my budget, aesthetic desire for white speakers (these LS50’s do look sweet).
I did also audition the LS50W’s (powered) and when they were cranked, the highs seemed too harsh for me. I had to ask it to be turned down. This was in a listening room at Best Buy. At the time, I didn’t make the connection.
I do like the LS50’s and think they sound good on the one hand but still feel like something is missing. Would adding rears (and maybe a center) make the difference? Idk. Turning up the bass helps but still… I also wonder about listening fatigue with these.
I will listen at low to medium levels but do definitely like to crank it up and rock out so to speak. Again, these LS50’s often seem harsh when cranking it up. Turning up the bass and dropping the treble a notch does help but…
I also often listen on shuffle and noticed that I kept wanting to tweak the eq with different songs to get a better sound when it was turned up… but this is far from ideal. Most of the music I listen to I suppose would be considered poor recording quality in the audiophile world.
I also do love the way the LS50’s look. Aesthetics are important to me. While my ideal is to get white speakers, I could be open to dropping that for blacks. But aesthetics will take a back seat to other things as necessary.
I do have a turntable but it has a preamp built in so I can get by without a preamp in the receiver. It’s also far from my main music listening source.
At this stage, I have been considering buying a bunch of different types to audition and compare in my home environment to see what I like best. Some of the ones I had been thinking about include (but I’m still learning and being exposed to new ones):
KEF LS50’s, Q150’s, Q350’s, center?
Canton Vento (accessories4less.com) for front & center, not sure about rears
Elac Debut 2.0, Unifi Slim or maybe Unifi UB5 ?
SVS Ultras for Front, Primes for rear, not sure about center (B&W?)
B&W’s 600’s, htm7
I feel like I should probably rule these out but they were a consideration.
Kef T205
Bose Acoustimas 10
Others???
Reviews of the Buchardts sound promising too but not sure how I could make those work with a full setup.
I again was leaning toward the SVS sub as it was the most regularly recommended “best” sub option but am open to other ideas on this too.
And I’m looking at bookshelves not towers.
Oh, and the all important question of budget. My ideal budget would be $2000 all in. However, I believe I can swing taking that up to $2500 or even $3000 if I really, really stretch it. I would basically be planning/hoping on this system lasting us for decades
I picked up the Denon x1500h for $400. The Denon x3400h is going for $600 ($500 refurbished). The SVS SB1000 was $600 and LS50’s $1000. All are still in the window for free returns.
I’m far from a true audiophile but I do love audio and have a more discerning ear than that random guy on the street I’d say.
So, with all that said, I’d love to hear your thoughts and any recommendations you could make for speakers/systems I should check out.
Oh, I’d prefer not to buy something that I’d have to return and pay for shipping/restocking fee and lose out on money. I just don’t have it to be throwing away. That is one challenge with the Cantons.
One last thought, I am leaning toward getting Sennheiser PXC550’s (waiting for them to drop below $200 again) over Bose QC35’s & Sony 1000MX3’s. The Bose and Sony NC bothered my ears but on top of that I just like the sound of the Sennheiser’s better. Granted a room system is different than headphones in a number of ways but I threw that in for what it’s worth.
As an added note, I've always preferred studio recordings to live as well. And I was thinking about my headphone comment, I do think the Bose headphones sound good but the NC was messing with me whereas the Sennheiser's sounded great and the NC didn't hurt my ears.
Oh, I have until mid January to return the Kef's / SVS. So, it is a relatively short window unfortunately.
I recognize this is all a challenge in many ways and is largely dependent on personal tastes and whatnot but I appreciate you taking time to think and guide me in this process.
Any insights and leads you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
(Sorry this is so long but in some ways figured it's better to provide more detail to hopefully produce more relevant results.)
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Ebay 15% off until 6PM tonight
Save 15% on everything with - POPUPSAVINGS
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Rear speakers for Samsung N850 Soundbar?
I decided not to go with the 950 due to cost restrictions (and I got the 850 for only 500!) but it of course doesn’t come with the rear speakers. I know I can buy the non upward firing rear speakers for it, but that defeats the purpose of the atmos setup I’m going for. Is there anyway to buy the rear speakers that come with the 950? Anyway at all???? Or.. are there somehow some other speakers that would function in their place and be compatible (I know that’s unlikely..). Thanks!
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MadVR issue on OLED TV 4k HDR
Hello!
I'm new here, I hope someone can help me to setup Madvr, I would like watch HDR 4K movies "HEVC MKV" thought my pc but the image have small lags and not smooth as if played directly from the TV. I tried different config days and days... but lags still visible. I noticed that Madvr is more fluid on 2160p30 than on 2160p24 or 2160p60.
LG OLED65b7p
I7 7700k
RTX 2080 ti
16GB ddr4
fille
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Thnak You
I'm new here, I hope someone can help me to setup Madvr, I would like watch HDR 4K movies "HEVC MKV" thought my pc but the image have small lags and not smooth as if played directly from the TV. I tried different config days and days... but lags still visible. I noticed that Madvr is more fluid on 2160p30 than on 2160p24 or 2160p60.
LG OLED65b7p
I7 7700k
RTX 2080 ti
16GB ddr4
fille
Thnak You
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HSU VTF-15H MK2 Chuffing/port noise
Is this a symptom of a subwoofer being driven too much?
I recorded it first 20 seconds of Edge of tomorrow, then it also happened en equalizer2 during some scenes. Not sure if its preventable or i just need a sub with more juice...
I recorded it first 20 seconds of Edge of tomorrow, then it also happened en equalizer2 during some scenes. Not sure if its preventable or i just need a sub with more juice...
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Getting my Win10 PC's color settings figured out. Something's amiss.
I'm at a bit of a loss. I'm trying to get HDR content to play appropriately on my non-HDR monitor. This is my equipment.
1) Windows 10 Pro
2) Geoforce 1080Ti based video card
3) LG 27UD288-W (Supports 2840x2160, 60Hz, 8 bit with RGB 4:4:4 and YCbCr 4:4:4, and 10 bit with YCrCb 4:2:0 and 4:2:2)
4) An AmazonBasics 15' cable which should fully support HDMI 2.0
I was trying to figure out where things are going awry with MadVR and LAV decoder making some rather dark scenes look insanely dark with a UHD movie, while the blu-ray disc of the same title looks better in terms of reasonable black levels.
So I go down the rabbit hole of trying to get my video driver setup correctly in terms of color format, depth, and dynamic range. Because while that doesn't seem to be the problem, I figure it might be a good idea to get that right.
So first question - should I be using RGB color space or YCrCb. Searches suggest YCrCb probably.
When using a DisplayPort 1.2 connection, I can select YCbCr422, 10 bit color depth, but only limited dynamic range. If I go with RGB, 10 bits, I can select wide dynamic range. (60Hz, full res)
If I use instead my HDMI cable input, I can only get 8 bit color depth with YCbCr422, limited dynamic range. RGB will only give me 8 bit depth, full dynamic range.
The manual for my monitor clearly states if I have "HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color" on, 10 bit YCbCr is supported in both 4:2:0 and 4:2:2, but the Nvidia driver utility is not letting me select that.
With an HDMI connection, I can't select 10bit at all. My display is advertised as 10 bit (8bit + A-FRC). And with DP, I can at least select 10bits with RGB.
I've spent a lot of time trying to figure this out myself before posting... And would greatly appreciate it if someone can share ideas and insight with me. I can then hopefully go experiment and research and run down solutions..
Thank you!
1) Windows 10 Pro
2) Geoforce 1080Ti based video card
3) LG 27UD288-W (Supports 2840x2160, 60Hz, 8 bit with RGB 4:4:4 and YCbCr 4:4:4, and 10 bit with YCrCb 4:2:0 and 4:2:2)
4) An AmazonBasics 15' cable which should fully support HDMI 2.0
I was trying to figure out where things are going awry with MadVR and LAV decoder making some rather dark scenes look insanely dark with a UHD movie, while the blu-ray disc of the same title looks better in terms of reasonable black levels.
So I go down the rabbit hole of trying to get my video driver setup correctly in terms of color format, depth, and dynamic range. Because while that doesn't seem to be the problem, I figure it might be a good idea to get that right.
So first question - should I be using RGB color space or YCrCb. Searches suggest YCrCb probably.
When using a DisplayPort 1.2 connection, I can select YCbCr422, 10 bit color depth, but only limited dynamic range. If I go with RGB, 10 bits, I can select wide dynamic range. (60Hz, full res)
If I use instead my HDMI cable input, I can only get 8 bit color depth with YCbCr422, limited dynamic range. RGB will only give me 8 bit depth, full dynamic range.
The manual for my monitor clearly states if I have "HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color" on, 10 bit YCbCr is supported in both 4:2:0 and 4:2:2, but the Nvidia driver utility is not letting me select that.
With an HDMI connection, I can't select 10bit at all. My display is advertised as 10 bit (8bit + A-FRC). And with DP, I can at least select 10bits with RGB.
I've spent a lot of time trying to figure this out myself before posting... And would greatly appreciate it if someone can share ideas and insight with me. I can then hopefully go experiment and research and run down solutions..
Thank you!
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Quality receiver for Klipsch AW-650s'
I have 4 Klipsch AW-650s that I'm going to install at my barn for a gathering area and I need a good receiver for them. They are rated at 85 watts / 8 ohm but I can't find an integrated receiver/amp that that will deliver 80-85 amps without something that is way overkill and more than I need. Wondering if I need to look at a seperate amp/reciever at this point?
All I want is simply to power each of the speakers to their full potential of 85 watts while being able to use my iPhone (iTunes) being the music source. FM radio would be nice but not mandatory. The best I could find so far is a Harmon Kardon HK 3770 2-channel that is 120 watts per channel or 60 watts per speaker in my scenario. That's leaving 25 watts per speaker on the table plus I've read not so positive reviews about newer Harmon Kardon products. I would like a quality product but when all I need is to play iTunes from my iPhone, most of what I see is paying for alot of features that I'll never use.. Please help with recommendations... Thanks!
All I want is simply to power each of the speakers to their full potential of 85 watts while being able to use my iPhone (iTunes) being the music source. FM radio would be nice but not mandatory. The best I could find so far is a Harmon Kardon HK 3770 2-channel that is 120 watts per channel or 60 watts per speaker in my scenario. That's leaving 25 watts per speaker on the table plus I've read not so positive reviews about newer Harmon Kardon products. I would like a quality product but when all I need is to play iTunes from my iPhone, most of what I see is paying for alot of features that I'll never use.. Please help with recommendations... Thanks!
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